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CONTENTS.

CHAPTER V.

A bold Endeavour.—Unexpected Obstacles.—Disadvantage of a
Dress.—The Dead Sea.—A new Project.—The Tomb of
Aaron.—An Alarm.—-Descent of the Mountain.—An awkward
Meeting.—Poetic License.—All's Well that Ends Well.—Un-
expected Dignities.—Arab Notions of Travel . Page 87

CHAPTER VI.

Valley of El Ghor.—Prophecies against Edom.—The Sheik's
Treachery.—An Explosion.—Personnel of the Arabs.—Amu-
sing Retrospect.—Money Troubles.—Aspect of the Valley.—
Death of a Camel—The Desert Horses.—Native Salt . 109

CHAPTER VII.

The Road to Gaza.—Unknown Ruins.—A Misadventure.—Pas-
toral Bedouins.—A Flower of the Wilderness.—The Ravages
of War.—Testimony of an Eyewitness .... 130

CHAPTER VIII.

Approach to Hebron.—A Sick Governor.—A Prescription at
Random.—Hospitality of the Jews.—Finale with the Bedouins.
—A Storm.—A Calm after the Storm.—Venality of the Arabs.
—Hebron.—A Coptic Christian.—Story of-the Rabbi.—Pro-
fessional Employment 145

CHAPTER IX.

An Arnaout.—The Pools of Solomon.—Bethlehem.—The Em-
press Helena.—A Clerical Exquisite.—Miraculous Localities.
—A Boon Companion.—The Soldier's Sleep.—The Birthplace
of Christ.—Worship in the Grotto.—Moslem Fidelity . 172

CHAPTER X.

The Tomb of Rachel.—First View of Jerusalem.—Falling among
Thieves.—Potent Sway of the Pacha.—A Turkish Dignitary.
^—A Missipnary.-^-Easter in Jerusalem.^A Little Congrega-
tion..........194
 
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