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142 INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL-

first since we left Cairo. Like the ruined and de»
serted village we had left, it was a mingled exhibi*
tion of ancient greatness and modern poverty ; and
probably it was a continuation of the same ruined
Roman city. A large fortress, forming part of a
battlement, in good preservation, and fragments of
a wall, formed the nucleus of a village, around
which the inhabitants had built themselves huts*
The rude artisans of the present day knew nothing
of the works which their predecessors had built;
and the only care they had for them was to pull
them down, and with the fragments to build for
themselves rude hovels and enclosures; and the
sculptured stones which once formed the orna-
ments of Roman palaces, were now worked up into
fences around holes in the ground, the poor dwel*
lings of the miserable Arabs.

The stranger from a more favoured land, in look-
ing at the tenants of these wretched habitations,
cannot help thanking his God that his lot is not like
theirs. When I rode through, the whole popula-
tion had crawled out of their holes and hiding-
places, and were basking in the warmth of a sum-
mer's sun ; and I could not help seeing the kindly
hand of a benefactor in giving to them what he has
denied to us, a climate where, for the greater part
of the year, they may spend their whole days in the
open air, and even at night hardly need the shelter
of a roof. This is probably the last of the cities
which once stood on the great Roman road from
Jerusalem to Akaba. While riding among the
 
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