EASTER IN JERUSALEM.
205
conspicuous of whom are the Christians of Bethle-
hem, with figures of the Saviour, the Virgin, and a
host of saints, carved from mother of pearl, in all
kinds of fantastic shapes. v It was precisely the
time at which I had wished and expected to be in
Jerusalem—the season of Easter—and. thousands
of pilgrims, from every part of the Eastern world,
had already arrived for the great ceremonies of
the holy week. The court was thronged with
them, crowded together so that it was almost im-
possible to move, and waiting, like myself, till the
door of the church should be opened. The holy
sepulchre, as in the days when all the chivalry of
Europe armed to wrest it from them, is still in the
hands of the infidels ; and it would have made the
sword of an old crusader leap from its scabbard,
to behold a haughty Turk, with the air of a lord
and master, standing sentinel at the door, and
with his long mace beating and driving back the
crowd of struggling Christians. As soon as the
door was opened, a rush was made for entrance ;
and as I was in the front rank, before the impetus
ceased, amid a perfect storm of pushing, yelling,
and shouting, I was carried almost headlong into
the body of the church. The press continued be-
hind, hurrying me along, and kicking off my shoes;
and in a state of desperate excitement both of
mind and body,' utterly unsuited to the place and
time, I found myself standing over the so called
tomb of Christ; where, to enhance the incongruity
of the scene, at the head of the sepulchre stood a
205
conspicuous of whom are the Christians of Bethle-
hem, with figures of the Saviour, the Virgin, and a
host of saints, carved from mother of pearl, in all
kinds of fantastic shapes. v It was precisely the
time at which I had wished and expected to be in
Jerusalem—the season of Easter—and. thousands
of pilgrims, from every part of the Eastern world,
had already arrived for the great ceremonies of
the holy week. The court was thronged with
them, crowded together so that it was almost im-
possible to move, and waiting, like myself, till the
door of the church should be opened. The holy
sepulchre, as in the days when all the chivalry of
Europe armed to wrest it from them, is still in the
hands of the infidels ; and it would have made the
sword of an old crusader leap from its scabbard,
to behold a haughty Turk, with the air of a lord
and master, standing sentinel at the door, and
with his long mace beating and driving back the
crowd of struggling Christians. As soon as the
door was opened, a rush was made for entrance ;
and as I was in the front rank, before the impetus
ceased, amid a perfect storm of pushing, yelling,
and shouting, I was carried almost headlong into
the body of the church. The press continued be-
hind, hurrying me along, and kicking off my shoes;
and in a state of desperate excitement both of
mind and body,' utterly unsuited to the place and
time, I found myself standing over the so called
tomb of Christ; where, to enhance the incongruity
of the scene, at the head of the sepulchre stood a