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DEPARTURE PROM THE HOLY LAND. 307

recollect it, was as follows:—"Mr. S-, a young
American, on the point of leaving the Holy Land,
would regret exceedingly being obliged to do so
without first having paid his respects to the Lady
Esther Stanhope. If the Lady Esther Stanhope
will allow him that honour, Mr. S. will present
himself to-morrow, at any hour her ladyship will
name." If the reader will compare this note with
the letter of M. de la Manine, he will almost
wonder that my poor messenger, demanding, too,
an immediate answer, was not kicked out of doors.
My horses were at the door, either for Beyroot or
her ladyship's residence; and, when obliged to
turn away from the latter, I comforted myself with
a good gallop to the former. Her ladyship was
exceedingly lucky, by-lhe-way, in not having re-
ceived me ; for that night I broke down at Bey-
root ; my travels in the East were abruptly ter-
minated ; and, after lying ten days under the at-
tendance of an old Italian quack, with a blue frock
coat and great frog buttons, who frightened me to
death every time he approached my bedside, I got
on board the first vessel bound for sea, and sailed
for Alexandria. At Beyroot I received a letter
from the friend who had taken me on board his
boat at Thebes, advising me of the sickness of his
lady, and that he had prevailed upon the English
doctor at Beyroot to accompany him to Damascus
and Baalbeek ; here, too, I heard of the death of Mr.
Lowell, agentleman from Boston, who had preceded
me in many parts of my tour in the East; and who
 
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