DOI Page / Citation link:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.74283#0087
THE DANCERS
69
brought up higher to cover the neck completely, and begins to
develop into the plaited ruff worn for almost two centuries there-
after (Figs. 14, 15).79 Another mark of popular fashion, the slash-
ing of the costume and the lining of the slashes with material of
a contrasting color, makes its first appearance in the Schembart
costume for 1493 (Fig. 9), and then remains as an essential fea-
ture of style in almost all the subsequent costumes of the Ldujer.s°
With the slashing we find the padding characteristic of the age of
bombast that was being ushered in, puffing produced by sewing
rolls into the garment, especially in the sleeves and short trunk-
hose (cf. Figs. 9, 12).81 The latter, the padded trunk-hose, were
slow in developing — the Ldujer for 1495 was the first to wear
them — but finally became the fashion, while the long hose were
worn as stockings.82 The changes we have discussed were all com-
bined in the Spanish costume that conquered Europe in the Six-
teenth Century. It appears in full development in the Schembart
books on the Ldujer for 1539 (Fig. 15).83 Both sleeves and hose
of this costume are made of strips of silk and velvet sewn together,
79 Cf. Boehn (XVI), p. 104.
80 For a reference to clothes that were "verhauwen und underfudert" (1470) cf.
Schultz, p. 328. Matthaus Schwarz notes in his Trachtenbuch a costume worn by him
in 1523, with 4800 "Schlitze," all lined with white velvet, cf. Boehn (XVI), p. 100.
Oskar Fischel, Chronisten der Mode (Potsdam: Miiller & Co., 1923), p. 17, interprets
the slits as an expression of freedom, "Ellenbogenfreiheit," in line with the develop-
ment of bourgeois democratic society. A more natural origin for "die Mode des
Zerhauenen" is suggested by Boehn (MA), p. 228, in the tight clothing of the
Fifteenth Century; the slash appeared first at the elbow, then spread to other parts
of the costume, even to the shoes.
81 Cf. Schultz, Figs. 410, 422-5, 460, 650-1; Weiss, Bd. III, p. 6ogf. This fashion
seems to have originated in Burgundy, at the beginning of the Fifteenth Century, cf.
Boehn (MA), p. 224. The word "bombast" itself is derived from OF bombace,
"cotton," "padding."
82 Cf. Boehn (XVI), p. 107.
83 The costume is figured again in our MS on f. 7or and f. 7ir, in somewhat modi-
fied form. On the Spanish costume in the Trachtenbiicher cf. Herrmann (Forschungen),
pp. io7ff. In 1524 Matthaus Schwarz dressed "auf hispanisch," cf. Boehn (XVI), pp.
I24ff. Cf. also J. H. v. Hefner-Alteneck, Trachten, Kunstwerke und Gerdthschaften
(Frankfurt a/M: H. Keller, 1879-89), VII, Tafel 491, 494, Bd. VIII, Tafel 545
(Landsknechte), cited below as "Hefner-Alteneck"; R. Badenhausen, Das spanische
Kostum und seine Bedeutung fur die Buhne (Miinchen: Kallmunz, 1936), pp. 22ff.;
E. Nienholdt, Die deutsche Tracht im Wandel der Jahrhunderte (Berlin: W. de
Gruyter & Co., 1938), pp. 90-107. Two references by Hans Sachs to the Spanish
costume are quoted in Herrmann (Forschungen), p. 135 (1532: "Der pueler fein
stolz in spanisch' kappe vnd federn"), p. 122 (1551: "spanisch gekleidt").
69
brought up higher to cover the neck completely, and begins to
develop into the plaited ruff worn for almost two centuries there-
after (Figs. 14, 15).79 Another mark of popular fashion, the slash-
ing of the costume and the lining of the slashes with material of
a contrasting color, makes its first appearance in the Schembart
costume for 1493 (Fig. 9), and then remains as an essential fea-
ture of style in almost all the subsequent costumes of the Ldujer.s°
With the slashing we find the padding characteristic of the age of
bombast that was being ushered in, puffing produced by sewing
rolls into the garment, especially in the sleeves and short trunk-
hose (cf. Figs. 9, 12).81 The latter, the padded trunk-hose, were
slow in developing — the Ldujer for 1495 was the first to wear
them — but finally became the fashion, while the long hose were
worn as stockings.82 The changes we have discussed were all com-
bined in the Spanish costume that conquered Europe in the Six-
teenth Century. It appears in full development in the Schembart
books on the Ldujer for 1539 (Fig. 15).83 Both sleeves and hose
of this costume are made of strips of silk and velvet sewn together,
79 Cf. Boehn (XVI), p. 104.
80 For a reference to clothes that were "verhauwen und underfudert" (1470) cf.
Schultz, p. 328. Matthaus Schwarz notes in his Trachtenbuch a costume worn by him
in 1523, with 4800 "Schlitze," all lined with white velvet, cf. Boehn (XVI), p. 100.
Oskar Fischel, Chronisten der Mode (Potsdam: Miiller & Co., 1923), p. 17, interprets
the slits as an expression of freedom, "Ellenbogenfreiheit," in line with the develop-
ment of bourgeois democratic society. A more natural origin for "die Mode des
Zerhauenen" is suggested by Boehn (MA), p. 228, in the tight clothing of the
Fifteenth Century; the slash appeared first at the elbow, then spread to other parts
of the costume, even to the shoes.
81 Cf. Schultz, Figs. 410, 422-5, 460, 650-1; Weiss, Bd. III, p. 6ogf. This fashion
seems to have originated in Burgundy, at the beginning of the Fifteenth Century, cf.
Boehn (MA), p. 224. The word "bombast" itself is derived from OF bombace,
"cotton," "padding."
82 Cf. Boehn (XVI), p. 107.
83 The costume is figured again in our MS on f. 7or and f. 7ir, in somewhat modi-
fied form. On the Spanish costume in the Trachtenbiicher cf. Herrmann (Forschungen),
pp. io7ff. In 1524 Matthaus Schwarz dressed "auf hispanisch," cf. Boehn (XVI), pp.
I24ff. Cf. also J. H. v. Hefner-Alteneck, Trachten, Kunstwerke und Gerdthschaften
(Frankfurt a/M: H. Keller, 1879-89), VII, Tafel 491, 494, Bd. VIII, Tafel 545
(Landsknechte), cited below as "Hefner-Alteneck"; R. Badenhausen, Das spanische
Kostum und seine Bedeutung fur die Buhne (Miinchen: Kallmunz, 1936), pp. 22ff.;
E. Nienholdt, Die deutsche Tracht im Wandel der Jahrhunderte (Berlin: W. de
Gruyter & Co., 1938), pp. 90-107. Two references by Hans Sachs to the Spanish
costume are quoted in Herrmann (Forschungen), p. 135 (1532: "Der pueler fein
stolz in spanisch' kappe vnd federn"), p. 122 (1551: "spanisch gekleidt").