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OF THE WORLD'S INDUSTRY. 31

regiments: some are dyed in brilliant colours, and, to show the perfection of the art,
several colours are produced upon the same feather, a process never attempted until
within the last twenty years. There were also specimens from the marabout stork (lepio-
plilus crumeniferus) made into plumes and screens, with the feathers of the scarlet ibis,
which have a very pretty effect; some of these were also dyed various colours on the
same feather. There were likewise some knotted and made into trimmings, with gold,
suitable for dresses—a work of great time and patience, as every knot has to be tied
separately. Some of the grey marabouts were dyed black, which, in this description of
feather, is a colour very difficult to produce. The feathers of the birds of Paradise were
in great variety, both in their natural state and dressed for ladies' use; some were dyed
different colours, many of which, considering the natural colour of the bird (which is a
bright gold), are very difficult to accomplish—as, for instance, the purple and rose
colours, as well as the mixed hues, which are not very often seen. Some plumes made
from the feather of the rhea, or South American ostrich, were also to be found among
the collection. These feathers are usually called by the plumassiers " vultures," and
are used for a variety of purposes—some for military plumes, others for ladies' wear.
There were also the feathers of the emu, which are much prized on the continent, and are
there known as the plume de casoir. The feathers of the heron (ardeH cinerea), which are
used by the Knights of the Garter, are very valuable, owing to their scarcity—a small
plume being worth fifty guineas. The plumes of the plotus aulinga {plumes d'auligna),
a rare feather, also were in great variety, some mounted with gold and silver. These
feathers are frequently called heron plumes, and are worn by persons of rank in the East.
Besides these, there were the feathers of the large egret, which are used by the officers
of the hussar regiments. There were also the feathers of the small egret {herodias
gurzetta), some dyed in different colours; the feathers of the scarlet ibis, in the form
of wreaths; also those of the argus pheasant, made into screens, and the feathers of the
peacock. We had likewise some from the common cock, made into a variety of plumes,
as well as those of the turkey, the swan, and the eagle; the latter are used in the High-
land costume.

Some interesting specimens of the grebe (podiceps cristata) were to be seen in the fur
department. This is an aquatic bird, inhabiting most of the lakes in Europe. The
choicest specimens were from Geneva, Italy, and Holland. The feathers are of the richest
white, having the appearance of polished silver, the plumage on the outer edge of the
skin being a rich dark brown; it is used by ladies, forms a most beautiful and elegant
article of dress, and is worn as trimmings for the trains of court and drawing-room
dresses, for muff's, cuffs, boas, &c. It is very durable; the exquisite smoothness of the
feathers prevents its soiling with wear. We next notice the beautifully soft and clastic
down known as the eider-down. The bird from which this substance is taken is found in
large numbers in Iceland, Norway, and Sweden. Its colour is dark grey, and its elas-
ticity, lightness, and resistance to wet, are prominent amongst its other advantages; it is
used for the inside stuffing of muffs. On the Continent the well-known eider-down quilts
are, on account of their lightness and warmth, considered almost indispensable to bed-
rooms. The eider-down is applied to wearing apparel; by being placed immediately
under the lining, and quilted, it forms one of the lightest and warmest articles of dress,
both for ladies and gentlemen. The beautiful material known as "swan's-down," of
which there were several specimens, is obtained from the swan after the feathers have
been plucked. The feathers, prepared and purified, are used for beds, and, being ex-
ceedingly durable and elastic, are particularly suited for that purpose. The Hudson's
Bay swan quills are much in demand for pens, and for artists' brushes or pencils, and
command a high price. A portion of the plumage is also used for ornamental and fancy
 
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