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174 THE GREAT EXHIBITION

to a great extent, similar, the contributions having been chiefly sent by first-rate pro-
ducers, who, in running an honourable race with their rivals, all attained the point of
excellence, which left little room for diversity. In some of the cases there was more
artistic taste, as regards the designs of ornament, than in others; but the mechanical
finish of the whole array defied censure. The button manufacture of England was
obviously and decidedly creditable to the country.

CHAPTER XXIV.

SOAP.

ITS COMMERCIAL IMPORTANCE----TEST OF CIVILIZATION—EARLY HISTORY OF----HOMERIC VIRGINS—

PLOT, STRABO, GEBER—MODERN HISTORY OF----VARIETY OF SUBSTANCES EMPLOYED----DIF-
FERENT MODES OF MANUFACTURE----ITS PROPERTIES AND ACTIOS"—NUMBER OF EXHIBITORS-
EXTENSIVE USE IN GREAT BRITAIN—EXCISE DUTY.

The magnitude of the manufacture of soap, the importance of the trade, and the enormous
capital embarked in it, as well as the wonderful relation which it bears with regard to
the most important links in the chain of chemical industry, is not often sufficiently esti-
mated. A distinguished chemist of the present day says:—" The quantity of soap con-
sumed by a nation would be no inaccurate measure whereby to estimate its wealth and
civilisation. Political economists, indeed, will not give it this rank; but, whether we
regard it as joke or earnest, it is not the less true that, of two countries of an equal
amount of population, we may declare with positive certainty, that the wealthiest and
most highly civilised is that which consumes the greatest weight of soap. The con-
sumption does not subserve sensual gratification, nor depend upon fashion, but upon
the feeling of the beauty, comfort, and welfare attendant upon cleanliness; and a
regard to this feeling is coincident with wealth and civilisation. The rich in the middle
ages, who concealed a want of cleanliness in their clothes and persons under a pro-
fusion of costly scents and essences, were more luxurious than we are in eating and
drinking, in apparel and horses; but how great is the difference between their days
and our own, when a want of cleanliness is equivalent to insupportable misery and mis-
fortune !" It is interesting to cast a glance upon the early history of this important
branch of trade. No mention of soap is to be found in the works of authors prior to the
Christian era. The term soap occurs repeatedly in the Old Testament, but the learned
Beckmaim has proved, in his Treatise on Soap, that the Hebrew word borith, which has
been rendered soap, rather means alkali. One of the most ancient descriptions of
bathing and washing is to be found in Homer's narrative of the preparations made by
the mother of the lovely Nausicaas, for the washing expedition to the river. Life-
sustaining meats and refreshing wines, softening oil in golden vessels for anointing the
skin, are carefully enumerated; but soap formed no part of the inventory. The Homeric
virgins were ignorant of this invaluable oleo-alkaline compound. Pliny is the first writer
who gives us an authentic account of soap. He states that it is made from tallow and
ashes, the best materials being goats'-tallow and beech-ash. He was also acquainted
with the hard and soft varieties of soap; he calls it a Gallic invention, but states that
it was particularly well prepared in Germany, where the men were more in the habit of
using it than the women. It served to colour the hair yellow. From the description of
 
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