DOI Page / Citation link:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.4692#0026
17
THE THOAD, ASSOS, & PERGAMUS.
|OON after our return from Sighajik I made preparations for an excursion to the Troad,
for the purpose of inspecting the remains of the Temple of Apollo Smintheus, which
were discovered by Captain Spratt. Finding that the Austrian Lloyds' vessels stopped
under steam at Cape Baba,—the ancient Lcctum, which forms the northern boundary of the
Gulf of Adrymittium,—and that the ruins of the temple were not many miles from the cape, I
left Smyrna, for Cape Baba, on 12th October by one of those steamers. Old Spiro not
being well enough for this journey, I procured the services of a one-eyed Ionian whom we
had encountered at Syra on our voyage out—Georgio by name. His first exploit was to
lose one of the tents we took with us when we left the vessel, before daybreak on the 13th. On the
whole lie served me faithfully, but was a little addicted to grumbling and raki. We could always find out
when he had imbibed too much raki; for on such occasions he was particularly sensitive about his sightless
orb, which he endeavoured to conceal by means of his long black locks of hair.
Before reaching Baba we touched at Mytilcnc; but as this was at midnight, we, of course, could sec
nothing of the town. Upon landing, we went shivering into a wretched cafe, and remained there until we
could arrange about the mode of conveyance to Kulaklee. At last we determined to go by boat to the
point nearest the village, and to send on for horses. We rowed along the shore, which is bold and
rocky, for some six miles, and then landed in a sandy cove. As Kulaklee was not far off, we left Georgio
to follow with the baggage, and walked to the village, which is situated on a hill at the end of a little
valley, opening into the large plain of Toozla, at a distance of about a mile and a half from Kulaklee. The
ruins were situated at the bottom of the valley, where the inhabitants had their gardens. Here we resolved to
pitch the tent, for the sake of privacy and quiet, although the natives, as usual, told us that there were
many robbers about.
Wc spent three or four days here examining the ruins, which consist of those of the temple and of a
small Soman building near it. .
The whole site of the temple is now occupied by small gardens, a few columns lying in one, some bases
in another, and foundations of walls in another. This made the exploration difficult, as we had in every
case to trespass upon the property of the inhabitants. In one of the gardens—that of the mollah—I found
a base apparently in the position it formerly occupied, and several drums of columns. The mouldings of
the base were very peculiar, consisting of two scotias divided by beads between an upper and lower torus.
The whole of the base was of one stone to the top of the apophyge. Built into a wall of an adjoining
garden was a piece of an Ionic capital of unusual character, as the hollow of the cushion was filled with
a scroll ornament of elegant form. I subsequently found another capital in the valley of Toozla, two miles
from the Temple, the ornament of which was more perfect. The lower diameter of the column was 3-37
feet. Near the column was a portion of Hellenic wall, which appeared to be part of the substructure of the
temple. A piece of the cymatium, with a beautiful honeysuckle ornament on it, was built into one of the
garden walls, and also a piece of frieze with sculpture on it representing a battle of Amazons.
About two hundred yards west of the drums of columns stood a mass of Hellenic ruins about 25 feet
high: this probably had formed part of the propytea. Near it was a piece of small frieze, with sculpture
o/a tripod and laurel-leaves between two griffins; but there was no trace of columns or pilasters near.
The Roman ruin consists of an arch of brickwork with architectural decorations. Here and there the rock
cropped up through the soil; and apparently the temple had been built upon it. I found several inscriptions
in the walls of houses in the village, which prove indisputably that the temple was that of the Sminthian
F° On the 18th wc started for Beahrahm, the site of Assos. Ascending the hills to the east, we rode an
hour through a wild upland country covered with bushes. We then passed through a village, and after
THE THOAD, ASSOS, & PERGAMUS.
|OON after our return from Sighajik I made preparations for an excursion to the Troad,
for the purpose of inspecting the remains of the Temple of Apollo Smintheus, which
were discovered by Captain Spratt. Finding that the Austrian Lloyds' vessels stopped
under steam at Cape Baba,—the ancient Lcctum, which forms the northern boundary of the
Gulf of Adrymittium,—and that the ruins of the temple were not many miles from the cape, I
left Smyrna, for Cape Baba, on 12th October by one of those steamers. Old Spiro not
being well enough for this journey, I procured the services of a one-eyed Ionian whom we
had encountered at Syra on our voyage out—Georgio by name. His first exploit was to
lose one of the tents we took with us when we left the vessel, before daybreak on the 13th. On the
whole lie served me faithfully, but was a little addicted to grumbling and raki. We could always find out
when he had imbibed too much raki; for on such occasions he was particularly sensitive about his sightless
orb, which he endeavoured to conceal by means of his long black locks of hair.
Before reaching Baba we touched at Mytilcnc; but as this was at midnight, we, of course, could sec
nothing of the town. Upon landing, we went shivering into a wretched cafe, and remained there until we
could arrange about the mode of conveyance to Kulaklee. At last we determined to go by boat to the
point nearest the village, and to send on for horses. We rowed along the shore, which is bold and
rocky, for some six miles, and then landed in a sandy cove. As Kulaklee was not far off, we left Georgio
to follow with the baggage, and walked to the village, which is situated on a hill at the end of a little
valley, opening into the large plain of Toozla, at a distance of about a mile and a half from Kulaklee. The
ruins were situated at the bottom of the valley, where the inhabitants had their gardens. Here we resolved to
pitch the tent, for the sake of privacy and quiet, although the natives, as usual, told us that there were
many robbers about.
Wc spent three or four days here examining the ruins, which consist of those of the temple and of a
small Soman building near it. .
The whole site of the temple is now occupied by small gardens, a few columns lying in one, some bases
in another, and foundations of walls in another. This made the exploration difficult, as we had in every
case to trespass upon the property of the inhabitants. In one of the gardens—that of the mollah—I found
a base apparently in the position it formerly occupied, and several drums of columns. The mouldings of
the base were very peculiar, consisting of two scotias divided by beads between an upper and lower torus.
The whole of the base was of one stone to the top of the apophyge. Built into a wall of an adjoining
garden was a piece of an Ionic capital of unusual character, as the hollow of the cushion was filled with
a scroll ornament of elegant form. I subsequently found another capital in the valley of Toozla, two miles
from the Temple, the ornament of which was more perfect. The lower diameter of the column was 3-37
feet. Near the column was a portion of Hellenic wall, which appeared to be part of the substructure of the
temple. A piece of the cymatium, with a beautiful honeysuckle ornament on it, was built into one of the
garden walls, and also a piece of frieze with sculpture on it representing a battle of Amazons.
About two hundred yards west of the drums of columns stood a mass of Hellenic ruins about 25 feet
high: this probably had formed part of the propytea. Near it was a piece of small frieze, with sculpture
o/a tripod and laurel-leaves between two griffins; but there was no trace of columns or pilasters near.
The Roman ruin consists of an arch of brickwork with architectural decorations. Here and there the rock
cropped up through the soil; and apparently the temple had been built upon it. I found several inscriptions
in the walls of houses in the village, which prove indisputably that the temple was that of the Sminthian
F° On the 18th wc started for Beahrahm, the site of Assos. Ascending the hills to the east, we rode an
hour through a wild upland country covered with bushes. We then passed through a village, and after