DOI Page / Citation link:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.4692#0028
THE TROAD, ASSOS, AND PERGAMUS. 19
each side: that on the exterior is pointed, that on the interior semicircular; yet they are both built on the
horizontal principle. No doubt these arches are of the greatest antiquity, as their construction seems to
show that at the time they were built the Greeks were not acquainted with the arch formed by voussoirs.
There was another gateway in the north-west corner, which was protected by a semicircular tower built
of lar«-e blocks: this work belongs to a portion of the wall not so old as the rest, if we may judge from
the semicircular arch with voussoirs over the doorway.
In the older part, which runs up from the principal gateway to the Acropolis, dividing the city into
two parts, is a postern which is interesting as presenting an arch with straight sides and a flat top, also
formed on the horizontal principle. The arch is four courses in height, and is covered with a series of flat
stones. The doorway itself is 9 feet 6 inches wide, and has a flat lintel two feet deep.
The walls have been continued round the Acropolis, but the towers now existing were erected in Roman
or Byzantine times. On the sea side they have almost entirely disappeared, but on the east side they can
be clearly traced.
Near the centre of the city is a large theatre, the seats of which are still in situ, but the proscenium is
in ruins. Near it is a terrace, which seems to have been occupied by the Agora and a small temple in
the vicinity. The whole space within the walls is covered with heaps of ruins of houses, temples, and
tombs. It is remarkable that in many cases the door-posts remain, though the walls have fallen: the
whole is of the local ferruginous stone. I could not find a fragment of marble in any part of the city.
The architecture of the temple will be described in the Explanation of the Plates.
After having thoroughly explored the ruins, on October 21st I determined to proceed by sea to Cape
Baba, and to touch at Sirigli—where I expected to find the ruins of a Greek town—on the way. The
wind had been blowing from the north with great violence for some days; but the owner of the caique we
hired assured us that by keeping under shelter of the high land we should run no risk. However, we had
not left the harbour many minutes before the wind blew with increased violence; our frail vessel could not
make head against the gale; so we were obliged to let her run before the wind, and were thus carried out
to sea. Fortunately the wind took us in the direction of a point of the island of Mytilene, where the
harbour of Molivo was situated; so, after a few hours of anxiety, we reached smooth water, greatly to the
satisfaction of my wife, who had courageously volunteered to accompany me on this, as on my other excur-
sions. There had been some cause for alarm, as the tackle of the caique was not of the best quality, and
at times our safety depended upon the strength of a single rope. I had made many voyages by caique
formerly, and had confidence in the sailorship of the Turks, who manage their small vessels admirably, but
not much in the quality of their tackle, which consists of rope of an inferior quality, knotted in many
places, and often rotten : their sails, too, are generally ragged and patched.
The town of Molivo is most picturesquely situated on the west side of a high rocky hill, upon the top
of which stands a castle, of Turkish times. The highest range of mountains in the island rises at the
distance of five or six miles, and the intervening plain is covered with vineyards and very fruitful gardens.
In one of these we pitched our tent, preferring the comparative quiet and retirement consequent upon that
plan to the annoyance we should have experienced from the visits, both of human beings and insects, had
we taken up our quarters in a house in the town.
The weather continued so boisterous that we were unable to prosecute our voyage for several days.
We occupied our time in visiting the castle and various villages in the neighbourhood of Molivo. There
are no traces of ancient Methymna, which was situated here, except a few masses of Byzantine brickwork,
and the usual fragments of broken marble and pottery, which strewed the ground between the harbour and
the modern town. The inhabitants are chiefly Greeks, who seem to live on good terms with the few Turks
—chiefly officials—who reside amongst them.
We rode one day to the Greek village of Petra, so called from a rock standing in the midst of the
houses, upon the top of which are perched a small church and a convent, occupied at the time of our visit
by a solitary nun.
Petra lies in a bay about six miles S.W. of Molivo, aud is picturesquely situated between mountains.
We rode into the interior, five miles beyond Petra, in order to insjocct the remains of a Byzantine fortress,
which we found upon the summit of a hill, guarding the pass into the interior of the island. The ruins
were unimportant. From the summit of the hill we had a most extensive view over the rich valleys,
covered with olive-trees, that border the inland gulf, Porto Calloni.
When the gale had abated, we proceeded by boat to Skammia, intending to travel by land thence to
the principal town in the island. We pitched our tent near the scala, and ascended a high mountain, upon
which the village was situated. It is probably the highest village in the whole island. The inhabitants
were all Greeks^ ruddy and healthy-looking. They were apparently a flourishing community, as they had
lately'erected a very showy church, which was in course of being decorated by a wandering artist from
M t Athos The head man of the village, who occupied a neat house near the church, showed us much
hospitality. We returned to our tent for the night.
The next morning I engaged horses for Kliu, with the intention of proceeding to the chief town of Mytilene.
each side: that on the exterior is pointed, that on the interior semicircular; yet they are both built on the
horizontal principle. No doubt these arches are of the greatest antiquity, as their construction seems to
show that at the time they were built the Greeks were not acquainted with the arch formed by voussoirs.
There was another gateway in the north-west corner, which was protected by a semicircular tower built
of lar«-e blocks: this work belongs to a portion of the wall not so old as the rest, if we may judge from
the semicircular arch with voussoirs over the doorway.
In the older part, which runs up from the principal gateway to the Acropolis, dividing the city into
two parts, is a postern which is interesting as presenting an arch with straight sides and a flat top, also
formed on the horizontal principle. The arch is four courses in height, and is covered with a series of flat
stones. The doorway itself is 9 feet 6 inches wide, and has a flat lintel two feet deep.
The walls have been continued round the Acropolis, but the towers now existing were erected in Roman
or Byzantine times. On the sea side they have almost entirely disappeared, but on the east side they can
be clearly traced.
Near the centre of the city is a large theatre, the seats of which are still in situ, but the proscenium is
in ruins. Near it is a terrace, which seems to have been occupied by the Agora and a small temple in
the vicinity. The whole space within the walls is covered with heaps of ruins of houses, temples, and
tombs. It is remarkable that in many cases the door-posts remain, though the walls have fallen: the
whole is of the local ferruginous stone. I could not find a fragment of marble in any part of the city.
The architecture of the temple will be described in the Explanation of the Plates.
After having thoroughly explored the ruins, on October 21st I determined to proceed by sea to Cape
Baba, and to touch at Sirigli—where I expected to find the ruins of a Greek town—on the way. The
wind had been blowing from the north with great violence for some days; but the owner of the caique we
hired assured us that by keeping under shelter of the high land we should run no risk. However, we had
not left the harbour many minutes before the wind blew with increased violence; our frail vessel could not
make head against the gale; so we were obliged to let her run before the wind, and were thus carried out
to sea. Fortunately the wind took us in the direction of a point of the island of Mytilene, where the
harbour of Molivo was situated; so, after a few hours of anxiety, we reached smooth water, greatly to the
satisfaction of my wife, who had courageously volunteered to accompany me on this, as on my other excur-
sions. There had been some cause for alarm, as the tackle of the caique was not of the best quality, and
at times our safety depended upon the strength of a single rope. I had made many voyages by caique
formerly, and had confidence in the sailorship of the Turks, who manage their small vessels admirably, but
not much in the quality of their tackle, which consists of rope of an inferior quality, knotted in many
places, and often rotten : their sails, too, are generally ragged and patched.
The town of Molivo is most picturesquely situated on the west side of a high rocky hill, upon the top
of which stands a castle, of Turkish times. The highest range of mountains in the island rises at the
distance of five or six miles, and the intervening plain is covered with vineyards and very fruitful gardens.
In one of these we pitched our tent, preferring the comparative quiet and retirement consequent upon that
plan to the annoyance we should have experienced from the visits, both of human beings and insects, had
we taken up our quarters in a house in the town.
The weather continued so boisterous that we were unable to prosecute our voyage for several days.
We occupied our time in visiting the castle and various villages in the neighbourhood of Molivo. There
are no traces of ancient Methymna, which was situated here, except a few masses of Byzantine brickwork,
and the usual fragments of broken marble and pottery, which strewed the ground between the harbour and
the modern town. The inhabitants are chiefly Greeks, who seem to live on good terms with the few Turks
—chiefly officials—who reside amongst them.
We rode one day to the Greek village of Petra, so called from a rock standing in the midst of the
houses, upon the top of which are perched a small church and a convent, occupied at the time of our visit
by a solitary nun.
Petra lies in a bay about six miles S.W. of Molivo, aud is picturesquely situated between mountains.
We rode into the interior, five miles beyond Petra, in order to insjocct the remains of a Byzantine fortress,
which we found upon the summit of a hill, guarding the pass into the interior of the island. The ruins
were unimportant. From the summit of the hill we had a most extensive view over the rich valleys,
covered with olive-trees, that border the inland gulf, Porto Calloni.
When the gale had abated, we proceeded by boat to Skammia, intending to travel by land thence to
the principal town in the island. We pitched our tent near the scala, and ascended a high mountain, upon
which the village was situated. It is probably the highest village in the whole island. The inhabitants
were all Greeks^ ruddy and healthy-looking. They were apparently a flourishing community, as they had
lately'erected a very showy church, which was in course of being decorated by a wandering artist from
M t Athos The head man of the village, who occupied a neat house near the church, showed us much
hospitality. We returned to our tent for the night.
The next morning I engaged horses for Kliu, with the intention of proceeding to the chief town of Mytilene.