DOI Page / Citation link:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.4692#0036
PRIENE, BRANCHID^E, AND HERACLEIA. 2?
hills, descended by a grassy slope into the valley of the Mseander. In our descent we passed an Ionic capital
near the spot marked as the site of Pyrrha on the Admiralty Chart.
Sakisbournou is a fishing-station on the banks of the Mseandcr,—a wretched swampy spot, infested with
malaria. The fishery is a monopoly belonging either to the Pasha or to some other rich inhabitant of Aidin,
who lets it to an Armenian; the agent is also an Armenian. He received us hospitably. His house was small,
but had glass windows,—an unusual circumstance in this part of the country. His predecessors had all succumbed
to intermittent fever in a short space of time, but he had managed to exist there three years without a single
attack; and this he attributed to the fact of his having kept the windows closed day and night. We dined
and breakfasted upon what formed the staple food of the little colony of fishermen,—a sort of caviare, prepared
from the roe of the fish caught in the river. This is sent in great quantities to Smyrna, where it is
considered a luxury. Early the next morning we visited the fishery. The mode of catching the fish is very
simple. The stream of the Mceander is diverted into a canal in which there are barriers of wicker-work, with
nets attached; within the barrier are compartments, always full of fish, so that a large supply can be
forwarded to the neighbouring towns on the shortest notice. We crossed the river in a ferry-boat, and rode
across the plain to Priene. After paying a second visit to the ruins, we left for Sokia, where we were again
entertained in Mr. Clarke's hospitable mansion.
On December 23rd we started for the ruins of Magnesia ad Mseandrum, accompanied by Mr. Boyd. We
rode for three hours skirting the plain to the residence of a Mogrebbin chief, who had quitted Algiers at the
time of the French occupation, and to whom Mr. Clarke recommended us. He received us well; but as his
followers were numerous and intrusive, we decided to take up our quarters at the house of the Aga of
Inekbazar, a hamlet situated near the ruins of Magnesia.
We found the ancient town in the midst of a marshy plain, which is separated from that of the Masander
by Mount Thorax. I was astonished at the extent and importance of the ruins. The first object that attracts
the eye of the traveller is the peribolus wall of the Temple of Diana Leucophryne. This is about twenty
feet high, and almost entire. The heap of ruins of the temple lies in the centre of the enclosure. Many of the
bases, drums, and capitals of the columns lie as they fell. This edifice was built by Ilemogenes of Alabanda, the
architect of the Temple of Bacchus at Teos. It was pseudo-dipteral in plan, and measured 198 feet by 10G feet.
The style is an enriched Ionic. The greater part of the frieze was dug up for the French Government by an
expedition under M. Texier. It was safely transported to Paris, and is now in the Louvre. The execution of
the sculptured figures is very unequal in character. I noticed in the midst of a pool of water, a slab of frieze
finer in style than any in the Louvre. This was probably disinterred by some Greeks who had, shortly before my
visit, removed several stones for the purpose of building a church in the neighbourhood. This inequality in the
style of the sculpture, which I also observed at Teos, is only to be accounted for by supposing that the master
sculptor had himself executed but one or two slabs, leaving the remainder to be carved by his pupils. Near the
temple stands a large Roman building, perfect, with the exception of the roof: this appears to be a basilica.
There is also a fine stadium, with the seats almost entire, on the side of Mount Thorax; and in the plain
there are the ruins of a large gymnasium and of various smaller edifices. The soil is very marshy; several
streams run through the plain : in rainy weather these overflow and inundate the ruins.
The Aga is old enough to remember M. Texier's expedition. His possessions at one time comprised all
the country in the valley, but now they are greatly diminished. He is a great hoioadgee, or sportsman, and
his whole life is devoted to the chase. While we were exploring the ruins, the rain fell in a deluge; so,
as there was every probability of its continuing for several days, I determined to return to Smyrna without
delay. In order to attain this object, we rose the next morning before daybreak, and proceeded to Salatine
Pass in a storm of rain. I was obliged to leave men and baggage behind, as I was anxious to reach Gelat-
kave in time for the last train to Smyrna, and as the roads were slippery, they could only proceed at a
walk. After a disagreable ride of seven hours, I reached the station in time to catch the train, and so
reached my friends at Boujah the same evening.
hills, descended by a grassy slope into the valley of the Mseander. In our descent we passed an Ionic capital
near the spot marked as the site of Pyrrha on the Admiralty Chart.
Sakisbournou is a fishing-station on the banks of the Mseandcr,—a wretched swampy spot, infested with
malaria. The fishery is a monopoly belonging either to the Pasha or to some other rich inhabitant of Aidin,
who lets it to an Armenian; the agent is also an Armenian. He received us hospitably. His house was small,
but had glass windows,—an unusual circumstance in this part of the country. His predecessors had all succumbed
to intermittent fever in a short space of time, but he had managed to exist there three years without a single
attack; and this he attributed to the fact of his having kept the windows closed day and night. We dined
and breakfasted upon what formed the staple food of the little colony of fishermen,—a sort of caviare, prepared
from the roe of the fish caught in the river. This is sent in great quantities to Smyrna, where it is
considered a luxury. Early the next morning we visited the fishery. The mode of catching the fish is very
simple. The stream of the Mceander is diverted into a canal in which there are barriers of wicker-work, with
nets attached; within the barrier are compartments, always full of fish, so that a large supply can be
forwarded to the neighbouring towns on the shortest notice. We crossed the river in a ferry-boat, and rode
across the plain to Priene. After paying a second visit to the ruins, we left for Sokia, where we were again
entertained in Mr. Clarke's hospitable mansion.
On December 23rd we started for the ruins of Magnesia ad Mseandrum, accompanied by Mr. Boyd. We
rode for three hours skirting the plain to the residence of a Mogrebbin chief, who had quitted Algiers at the
time of the French occupation, and to whom Mr. Clarke recommended us. He received us well; but as his
followers were numerous and intrusive, we decided to take up our quarters at the house of the Aga of
Inekbazar, a hamlet situated near the ruins of Magnesia.
We found the ancient town in the midst of a marshy plain, which is separated from that of the Masander
by Mount Thorax. I was astonished at the extent and importance of the ruins. The first object that attracts
the eye of the traveller is the peribolus wall of the Temple of Diana Leucophryne. This is about twenty
feet high, and almost entire. The heap of ruins of the temple lies in the centre of the enclosure. Many of the
bases, drums, and capitals of the columns lie as they fell. This edifice was built by Ilemogenes of Alabanda, the
architect of the Temple of Bacchus at Teos. It was pseudo-dipteral in plan, and measured 198 feet by 10G feet.
The style is an enriched Ionic. The greater part of the frieze was dug up for the French Government by an
expedition under M. Texier. It was safely transported to Paris, and is now in the Louvre. The execution of
the sculptured figures is very unequal in character. I noticed in the midst of a pool of water, a slab of frieze
finer in style than any in the Louvre. This was probably disinterred by some Greeks who had, shortly before my
visit, removed several stones for the purpose of building a church in the neighbourhood. This inequality in the
style of the sculpture, which I also observed at Teos, is only to be accounted for by supposing that the master
sculptor had himself executed but one or two slabs, leaving the remainder to be carved by his pupils. Near the
temple stands a large Roman building, perfect, with the exception of the roof: this appears to be a basilica.
There is also a fine stadium, with the seats almost entire, on the side of Mount Thorax; and in the plain
there are the ruins of a large gymnasium and of various smaller edifices. The soil is very marshy; several
streams run through the plain : in rainy weather these overflow and inundate the ruins.
The Aga is old enough to remember M. Texier's expedition. His possessions at one time comprised all
the country in the valley, but now they are greatly diminished. He is a great hoioadgee, or sportsman, and
his whole life is devoted to the chase. While we were exploring the ruins, the rain fell in a deluge; so,
as there was every probability of its continuing for several days, I determined to return to Smyrna without
delay. In order to attain this object, we rose the next morning before daybreak, and proceeded to Salatine
Pass in a storm of rain. I was obliged to leave men and baggage behind, as I was anxious to reach Gelat-
kave in time for the last train to Smyrna, and as the roads were slippery, they could only proceed at a
walk. After a disagreable ride of seven hours, I reached the station in time to catch the train, and so
reached my friends at Boujah the same evening.