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PYRAMIDS AND PROGRESS.

ASSOTAX: VIEW FROM OUR TERRACE, I.OOÏÎIXG SOTT!!.

and beyond. My
reis (captain) and
his good little vessel
hailed from these
parts. On my visit
this season to As-
souan, some of my
former crew had
learned of my re-
turn, and one morn-
ing I was delight-
ed to find Dahab
waiting forame, with
welcome written on
his handsome black
countenance. He
had brought a beau-
tiful little sail boat
of his own and several of the old crew, and during all my stay the pretty little
craft was always at our service. The Nile here flows west and east, and there
is mostly a pleasant breeze, morning and evening, enough to carry the little
boat against the rapid current of the river at a fair pace, or to make it fly
before the wind when its direction is down stream.

Dahab had provided himself with several lads with good voices, and when
we lay-to, or were at anchor we were given excellent vocal music, accom-
panied by the native drum
—an arrangement of pot-
tery, gourd-shaped, with
a skin drawn over it. One
boy's voice would lead the
song or story told in musical
cadence, and then the whole
crew would join in the
chorus, sometimes laughing
so heartily that they could
scarcely sing decorously.
Then an improvisatore
would recite, musically, a
panegyric (in Arabic, of
 
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