DOI Page / Citation link:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.1397#0320
PLATE 99.
SILK TISSUES,
BY J. LEHMAN & SON, VIENNA.
TN the Jury Eeports of the International Exhibitions both of 1851 and 1855, some objection
-*- was made to the rich and ornate description of the Austrian silk hangings, as admitting
the employment of inferior materials at the expense of intrinsic value. It is then with great
pleasure we remark in the Jury awards of 1862, that Messrs. J. Lehman & Son, of Yienna,
receive a medal, not only for the great variety of their rich silk tissues, but also for excellence
of manufacture. As regards design, both for effect and variety, we consider that the Austrian
tissues took the lead; finding, however, a close competitor for artistic merit in the Russian
fabrics exhibited by the house of Sapojnik. In these, as in the Austrian specimens, was to be
remarked a strong, distinctive, boldly-marked character, rich and harmonious in effect, admirably
adapted for great ceremonies of church or state.
Except some few establishments in Venetia, Bohemia, and Moravia, the manufacture of silk
tissues, velvets, and ribbons is nearly exclusively limited to Vienna and its environs, where, in
1860, the looms at work are stated by Mr. Schmitt to have exceeded 7,500 in number; among
them being 2,283 plain looms, 3,720 Jacquard looms, 1,466 mill and 40 mechanical looms;
employing over 30,000 hands. In no branch of manufacture has the value of a liberal com-
mercial policy been more striking; since Austria, under prohibitory duties, in 1851 imported
of silk and silk mixed goods only 286 lbs., and 176,384 lbs. export: in 1853, or less than two
years, the imports had increased to 46,190 lbs., and the exports to 863,000 lbs. The number
of looms in all branches of silk manufacture gave employment, in 1855, to not less than
30,000 persons. The exports of silk goods are principally to Italy, the Danubian Principalities,
and the United States.
The production of silk was unknown in Europe till the 6th century. About the year 552,
two Persian monks brought the eggs of the silkworm to Constantinople; and under the special
protection of the Emperor Justinian, the production and manufacture of silk commenced. Several
silk establishments were subsequently formed at Athens, Thebes, and Corinth, not only for rearing
the worm, but for unwinding the cocoons, twisting the filaments into stronger threads, and
weaving them into robes. The Venetians, who almost monopolized the commerce of the East at
that time and for centuries afterwards, were the intermediaries for transmitting the silk fabrics
of the Eastern empire 'through Europe; but the prices charged were enormous, and silk robes
were of such value as to be considered presents fitted for emperors.
About the year 1130, when Roger II. was proclaimed the first Norman king of Sicily and
Apulia, he established a silk manufactory at Palermo, worked by Greek artisans, whom he had
taken prisoners : from thence the trade soon spread throughout Italy. It seems to have been
introduced into Spain at a very early period by the Moors, particularly in Murcia, Cordova, and
Granada, which last-named town possessed a flourishing silk trade when it was taken by Ferdinand
and Isabella, in the year 1492. In France the silk manufacture was first introduced during the
reign of Louis XL, in Touraine; and subsequently Milanese workmen were established at Lyons
by Francis I., in 1520-4; but it was not till the year 1564 that the raw silk was successfully
produced; at which time Traucat, a working gardener at Nismes, formed the first nursery of
white mulberry-trees with such success that in a few years he was enabled to propagate them
throughout many of the southern districts. The mulberry plantations were greatly encouraged
under Henry IV. (1589—1618), and since then have been a source of prosperity to a large section
of the people. The trade received, however, a temporary check by the revocation of the Edict of
Nantes, A.D. 1685, which caused large bodies of skilled workmen to emigrate; a great number
of whom, settling in Spitalfields, introduced among our manufactures several of the best style of
silk stuffs, hitherto produced in France alone. In Italy the silk manufacture has always main-
tained a high name. Como and Milan, besides being great centres of silk-spinning, produce
all kinds of silk tissues, plain and figured, for dresses, furniture, and tapestry: at Milan, gold
and silver-worked church furniture is chiefly made, whilst Naples, peculiarly well adapted by
climate and soil for the growth of the mulberry-tree, is famed for its " Gros de Naples." In the
Calabrias this branch of industry also flourishes, and several establishments at Palermo, Catania,
and Acireale, still keep up the reputation of the cradle of the silk manufacture of Europe.
SILK TISSUES,
BY J. LEHMAN & SON, VIENNA.
TN the Jury Eeports of the International Exhibitions both of 1851 and 1855, some objection
-*- was made to the rich and ornate description of the Austrian silk hangings, as admitting
the employment of inferior materials at the expense of intrinsic value. It is then with great
pleasure we remark in the Jury awards of 1862, that Messrs. J. Lehman & Son, of Yienna,
receive a medal, not only for the great variety of their rich silk tissues, but also for excellence
of manufacture. As regards design, both for effect and variety, we consider that the Austrian
tissues took the lead; finding, however, a close competitor for artistic merit in the Russian
fabrics exhibited by the house of Sapojnik. In these, as in the Austrian specimens, was to be
remarked a strong, distinctive, boldly-marked character, rich and harmonious in effect, admirably
adapted for great ceremonies of church or state.
Except some few establishments in Venetia, Bohemia, and Moravia, the manufacture of silk
tissues, velvets, and ribbons is nearly exclusively limited to Vienna and its environs, where, in
1860, the looms at work are stated by Mr. Schmitt to have exceeded 7,500 in number; among
them being 2,283 plain looms, 3,720 Jacquard looms, 1,466 mill and 40 mechanical looms;
employing over 30,000 hands. In no branch of manufacture has the value of a liberal com-
mercial policy been more striking; since Austria, under prohibitory duties, in 1851 imported
of silk and silk mixed goods only 286 lbs., and 176,384 lbs. export: in 1853, or less than two
years, the imports had increased to 46,190 lbs., and the exports to 863,000 lbs. The number
of looms in all branches of silk manufacture gave employment, in 1855, to not less than
30,000 persons. The exports of silk goods are principally to Italy, the Danubian Principalities,
and the United States.
The production of silk was unknown in Europe till the 6th century. About the year 552,
two Persian monks brought the eggs of the silkworm to Constantinople; and under the special
protection of the Emperor Justinian, the production and manufacture of silk commenced. Several
silk establishments were subsequently formed at Athens, Thebes, and Corinth, not only for rearing
the worm, but for unwinding the cocoons, twisting the filaments into stronger threads, and
weaving them into robes. The Venetians, who almost monopolized the commerce of the East at
that time and for centuries afterwards, were the intermediaries for transmitting the silk fabrics
of the Eastern empire 'through Europe; but the prices charged were enormous, and silk robes
were of such value as to be considered presents fitted for emperors.
About the year 1130, when Roger II. was proclaimed the first Norman king of Sicily and
Apulia, he established a silk manufactory at Palermo, worked by Greek artisans, whom he had
taken prisoners : from thence the trade soon spread throughout Italy. It seems to have been
introduced into Spain at a very early period by the Moors, particularly in Murcia, Cordova, and
Granada, which last-named town possessed a flourishing silk trade when it was taken by Ferdinand
and Isabella, in the year 1492. In France the silk manufacture was first introduced during the
reign of Louis XL, in Touraine; and subsequently Milanese workmen were established at Lyons
by Francis I., in 1520-4; but it was not till the year 1564 that the raw silk was successfully
produced; at which time Traucat, a working gardener at Nismes, formed the first nursery of
white mulberry-trees with such success that in a few years he was enabled to propagate them
throughout many of the southern districts. The mulberry plantations were greatly encouraged
under Henry IV. (1589—1618), and since then have been a source of prosperity to a large section
of the people. The trade received, however, a temporary check by the revocation of the Edict of
Nantes, A.D. 1685, which caused large bodies of skilled workmen to emigrate; a great number
of whom, settling in Spitalfields, introduced among our manufactures several of the best style of
silk stuffs, hitherto produced in France alone. In Italy the silk manufacture has always main-
tained a high name. Como and Milan, besides being great centres of silk-spinning, produce
all kinds of silk tissues, plain and figured, for dresses, furniture, and tapestry: at Milan, gold
and silver-worked church furniture is chiefly made, whilst Naples, peculiarly well adapted by
climate and soil for the growth of the mulberry-tree, is famed for its " Gros de Naples." In the
Calabrias this branch of industry also flourishes, and several establishments at Palermo, Catania,
and Acireale, still keep up the reputation of the cradle of the silk manufacture of Europe.