DOI Page / Citation link:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.1398#0095
PLATE 130.
JEWELLERY,
BY MESSRS. GARRARD & CO., AND MESSRS. HUNT & ROSKELL, LONDON.
EVERY visitor to the Exhibition will remember the crowds which were attracted by the
magnificent display of jewellery contributed by the above-named firms; distinguished by the
massiveness and richness of its metal-work and the singular beauty and value of the stones.
Mr. Hunt having been honoured with the post of Reporter to the International Jury of his class,
was precluded, on that account, from receiving the very highest reward, which he otherwise would
certainly have obtained; but the Messrs. Garrard, as a matter of course, were awarded a prize medal,
with a long and most favourable notice of their productions in gold and silver, as well as for " a
magnificent collection of jewellery, including diamond-work distinguished for excellence of design
and manufacture." Among the objects illustrated by us, the portrait formed into a pendant
is that of Mary, Queen of Scots, mounted with moonstones, placed within an enamelled border,
and surmounted by the crown of Scotland. The two large studs and row of buttons enamelled
in gold, in the Cinque-cento style, are intended for the national costume of an Hungarian
nobleman, and would have served admirably to set off the splendid court uniform in the national
style exhibited by Jambor, of Pesth, in the Austrian department, which was intended for Michael I.,
Prince of Servia. The enamelled comb in the Etruscan style, and the other pieces selected
from Mr. Hunt's contribution, are marked with that excellent taste and fine workmanship which
characterize all his productions.
The jewellery in the English department was distinguished by the fineness of its precious
stones and its generally massive, quiet style of design. As regards the gems themselves, there
certainly was nothing to be seen in the foreign side at all comparable with the rare and exquisite
specimens which adorned the cases of the Messrs. Garrard, Messrs. Hunt & Roskell, Mr.
Hancock, Mr. Harry Emanuel, Messrs. Widdowson & Veale, Messrs. London & Ryder, Mr. R.
Attenborough, and others; and as regards design, whilst we are fain to admit that we missed
the fancy, tastefulness, and general artistic feeling, displayed especially in the French department,
yet the style generally adopted was suited to the more sober taste of the English people, and if
negative in its merits, from an iesthetic point of view, did not at any rate offend against reason
or good taste. Moreover, some of the finest jewellery in this country is handed down as heir-
looms from one generation to another, and having been once mounted at great expense for some
special occasion, is not readily altered to suit the caprices of fashion.
It is, however, to be remarked, that the English taste has not always been of so quiet a
character. In the Middle Ages, and during the Elizabethan period especially, a great deal of very
fanciful and rich jewellery was worn. Queen Elizabeth, in her various " progresses," was in the
habit of receiving valuable presents from those whom she honoured with a visit, in which jewellery
formed an important item. Thus during her progress to Bristol, in the year 1574, she was presented
by the Countess of Pembroke the younger, with " a mermaid of gold, having a maid upon her back
garnished with sparks of diamonds and rubies, with a diamond pendant and little ragged pearls."
The Earl of Pembroke gave her Majesty " an eagle of gold, enamelled green, garnished with
divers diamonds and rubies hanging at three short chains of gold, garnished with small sparks
of diamonds and three diamonds pendant." Sir John Young, Knight, and Mayor of Bristol,
presented to her " a jewel containing divers rubies and diamonds, wherein is a phoenix and
salamander of agate." The Harleian MSS. contain a list of jewels belonging to Queen Elizabeth,
among which is " a flower of gold garnished with sparkes of diamonds, rubyes, and ophals, with
an agath of Her Majesty's visnomy, and a perle pendante with devises painted in it, given by
eight maskers in the week anno regni 24." Queen Elizabeth had an inordinate love of jewellery,
and among other acquisitions, took from Mary, Queen of Scots, all her jewellery; among which
was the " Great Harry," an ornament for the breast, formed of diamonds and rubies in the shape
of a capital H, originally given by Henry VII. to his daughter Margaret, on her marriage with
James IV. of Scotland. Hilliard, the celebrated miniature-painter and goldsmith, left at his death
a curious jewel, containing the portraits of Henry VII., Henry VIII., Edward VI., and Queen
Mary, the battle of Bosworth in enamel on the top, and on the reverse the red and white roses.
In respect to fancifulness of design, the jewellery of the Elizabethan period was merely a reflex
of the style mainly brought into vogue by the celebrated Cellini, who combined in one subject
all the processes which the goldsmith's, sculptor's, enameller's, and engraver's arts could
afford him.
JEWELLERY,
BY MESSRS. GARRARD & CO., AND MESSRS. HUNT & ROSKELL, LONDON.
EVERY visitor to the Exhibition will remember the crowds which were attracted by the
magnificent display of jewellery contributed by the above-named firms; distinguished by the
massiveness and richness of its metal-work and the singular beauty and value of the stones.
Mr. Hunt having been honoured with the post of Reporter to the International Jury of his class,
was precluded, on that account, from receiving the very highest reward, which he otherwise would
certainly have obtained; but the Messrs. Garrard, as a matter of course, were awarded a prize medal,
with a long and most favourable notice of their productions in gold and silver, as well as for " a
magnificent collection of jewellery, including diamond-work distinguished for excellence of design
and manufacture." Among the objects illustrated by us, the portrait formed into a pendant
is that of Mary, Queen of Scots, mounted with moonstones, placed within an enamelled border,
and surmounted by the crown of Scotland. The two large studs and row of buttons enamelled
in gold, in the Cinque-cento style, are intended for the national costume of an Hungarian
nobleman, and would have served admirably to set off the splendid court uniform in the national
style exhibited by Jambor, of Pesth, in the Austrian department, which was intended for Michael I.,
Prince of Servia. The enamelled comb in the Etruscan style, and the other pieces selected
from Mr. Hunt's contribution, are marked with that excellent taste and fine workmanship which
characterize all his productions.
The jewellery in the English department was distinguished by the fineness of its precious
stones and its generally massive, quiet style of design. As regards the gems themselves, there
certainly was nothing to be seen in the foreign side at all comparable with the rare and exquisite
specimens which adorned the cases of the Messrs. Garrard, Messrs. Hunt & Roskell, Mr.
Hancock, Mr. Harry Emanuel, Messrs. Widdowson & Veale, Messrs. London & Ryder, Mr. R.
Attenborough, and others; and as regards design, whilst we are fain to admit that we missed
the fancy, tastefulness, and general artistic feeling, displayed especially in the French department,
yet the style generally adopted was suited to the more sober taste of the English people, and if
negative in its merits, from an iesthetic point of view, did not at any rate offend against reason
or good taste. Moreover, some of the finest jewellery in this country is handed down as heir-
looms from one generation to another, and having been once mounted at great expense for some
special occasion, is not readily altered to suit the caprices of fashion.
It is, however, to be remarked, that the English taste has not always been of so quiet a
character. In the Middle Ages, and during the Elizabethan period especially, a great deal of very
fanciful and rich jewellery was worn. Queen Elizabeth, in her various " progresses," was in the
habit of receiving valuable presents from those whom she honoured with a visit, in which jewellery
formed an important item. Thus during her progress to Bristol, in the year 1574, she was presented
by the Countess of Pembroke the younger, with " a mermaid of gold, having a maid upon her back
garnished with sparks of diamonds and rubies, with a diamond pendant and little ragged pearls."
The Earl of Pembroke gave her Majesty " an eagle of gold, enamelled green, garnished with
divers diamonds and rubies hanging at three short chains of gold, garnished with small sparks
of diamonds and three diamonds pendant." Sir John Young, Knight, and Mayor of Bristol,
presented to her " a jewel containing divers rubies and diamonds, wherein is a phoenix and
salamander of agate." The Harleian MSS. contain a list of jewels belonging to Queen Elizabeth,
among which is " a flower of gold garnished with sparkes of diamonds, rubyes, and ophals, with
an agath of Her Majesty's visnomy, and a perle pendante with devises painted in it, given by
eight maskers in the week anno regni 24." Queen Elizabeth had an inordinate love of jewellery,
and among other acquisitions, took from Mary, Queen of Scots, all her jewellery; among which
was the " Great Harry," an ornament for the breast, formed of diamonds and rubies in the shape
of a capital H, originally given by Henry VII. to his daughter Margaret, on her marriage with
James IV. of Scotland. Hilliard, the celebrated miniature-painter and goldsmith, left at his death
a curious jewel, containing the portraits of Henry VII., Henry VIII., Edward VI., and Queen
Mary, the battle of Bosworth in enamel on the top, and on the reverse the red and white roses.
In respect to fancifulness of design, the jewellery of the Elizabethan period was merely a reflex
of the style mainly brought into vogue by the celebrated Cellini, who combined in one subject
all the processes which the goldsmith's, sculptor's, enameller's, and engraver's arts could
afford him.