Watson, John F.: The textile manufactures and the costumes of the people of India (London, 1866)

VI

CONTENTS.

Loom-made Garments—continued.

II. LOONGEES and DHOTEES.

Dress of the male Hindu prior to the introduction of the art of sewing
The Dliotee, often the only garment used by poor Hindus and Mahomedans
Mode of wearing it by Hindus and Mahomedans - - - -

Reference to Plates ------

Piece goods cut up into Loongees and Dhotees - - - -

But usually they leave the loom ready for wear -

The Loongee, affords great opportunity for decoration -

The term Loongee—to what applied - - - - -

Derivation of the term Dliotee ------

.Tore, or the Loongee and Dliotee woven in one piece with a fag
between for separation -------'

Mode of wearing the Loongee, and reference to Plates - - -

Loongees vary in length -------

Principles observed in the decoration of Loongees and Dhotees -
The Eeputta and Doputta, or scarfs of one or two. breadths
The Pitambur, or loin cloths of silk, wool, and mixtures
Arrangement of Samples in Fabric Books explained -
Specimens cut and arranged so as to constitute ivorking samples

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A. Loongees, including Dhotees, when manufactured together.

1. Cotton.—Plain; coloured ends ; no borders
Simplicity of this group -

Material worn by the Burghers of Southern India

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2. Cotton.—Plain ; coloured borders and ends. ----- 23

Examples of the Jon; or Loongee and Dliotee woven in one

piece with a fag between ----- 23

Advantage of even a slight amount of ornamentation - - 23

Samples from Surat, probably of English make - - 23

Inappropriate embellishment a frequent fault in European goods

made for the Indian market ----- 23

Fabrics of light open texture suitable for ordinary wear in India,

illustrated in this group ------ 23

{Table) -------- 24

, 3. Cotton.—Plain ; silk in borders and ends. 24

Application of the Kutaree edging to the inner side of the

ornamental border - - - - - "24

{Table).25

Moonga silk, probably used in imitation of gold thread. (In Table) 25

Borders of different colours, attractive if in harmony. (In Table) 25

4. Cotton.—Plain; coloured borders; gold in ends

Pleasing effect produced by small amount of decoration

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5. Cotton.—Plain; gold and coloured cotton in borders; gold in ends.
Reference to and description of examples -

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6. Cotton.—Plain; gold and coloured Silk in borders; gold in end.
Description of example excellent in style and texture

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