DOI Page / Citation link:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.25990#0089
58
PIECE GOODS.
A kind of bodice or close-fitting jacket, of varying dimensions, is now almost universally
used by Hindu women. There are, however, one or two districts in which, as before
stated, no special needle-made covering for the bosom is worn by respectable Hindu
women.
The most common form of the bodice worn by Hindu and Mahomedan women, con-
sists of a closely-fitting jacket with short sleeves*, either merely covering the breast or
having a back attached to it as well. In the first case the bodice ties behind and the front
does not open. In the second, with a back, the ends of the bodice tie in front under the
breasts. Another variety of the jacket termed Koortee reaches nearly to the waist and some-
times lower, and has very short sleeves. It is worn by Mahomedan women and is frequently
used over the former.
Fig. 33, PI. V., gives a fair idea of the Cholee or first variety of bodice, but the sleeves, as
there shown, are shorter than is usual among Hindus.
Of the Koortee or Mahomedan jacket, with its characteristic short sleeve, no illustration
is given.
The figures 34, PI. V., and those in 35, PI. VI. (facing p. 50), show the Cholee sleeve
as most commonly worn by Hindu ladies. As a general rule the sleeve of the Mahomedan
cholee reaches less than half-way from the shoulder to the elbow, whereas the Hindu sleeve
usually extends just below the elbow.
Our general remarks on the costumes of the people of India may now be considered to be
nearly completed—a few observations regarding the application of made-up woollen materials
only remaining to be made.
Accordingly, we shall now proceed to describe the cotton, silk, and other piece goods
employed in the manufacture of the class of garments to which reference has just been
made, and in dealing with this part of our subject we shall commence with the finer before
proceeding to the coarser materials, though many of the last are, commercially, of most
importance.
* Called Kachuree in some dialects of Western India ; the term Cliolee, although strictly applicable to that
which has a back, is the one commonly used.
Kupissa or Kupassa is the name given to the bodice in Mysore, &c.
Buchanan describes the Anggiya as a bodice with very short sleeves, which reaches to the waist, is made
of muslin, and is worn under the Peswaj. The Koortee, by the same authority, is also referred to as having been
introduced into Behar from the west.
The Ungia, as worn with the petticoat, is closed in front and ties behind. The Cholee, worn with the Saree, on the
contrary, is tied in front and closed behind.
Captain Meadows Taylor, to whom we are indebted for some valuable notes under this head of our subject, endorses
Buchanan’s statement, that before the Mahomedan conquests, the bodice, and other needle-made articles were unknown
in India.
PIECE GOODS.
A kind of bodice or close-fitting jacket, of varying dimensions, is now almost universally
used by Hindu women. There are, however, one or two districts in which, as before
stated, no special needle-made covering for the bosom is worn by respectable Hindu
women.
The most common form of the bodice worn by Hindu and Mahomedan women, con-
sists of a closely-fitting jacket with short sleeves*, either merely covering the breast or
having a back attached to it as well. In the first case the bodice ties behind and the front
does not open. In the second, with a back, the ends of the bodice tie in front under the
breasts. Another variety of the jacket termed Koortee reaches nearly to the waist and some-
times lower, and has very short sleeves. It is worn by Mahomedan women and is frequently
used over the former.
Fig. 33, PI. V., gives a fair idea of the Cholee or first variety of bodice, but the sleeves, as
there shown, are shorter than is usual among Hindus.
Of the Koortee or Mahomedan jacket, with its characteristic short sleeve, no illustration
is given.
The figures 34, PI. V., and those in 35, PI. VI. (facing p. 50), show the Cholee sleeve
as most commonly worn by Hindu ladies. As a general rule the sleeve of the Mahomedan
cholee reaches less than half-way from the shoulder to the elbow, whereas the Hindu sleeve
usually extends just below the elbow.
Our general remarks on the costumes of the people of India may now be considered to be
nearly completed—a few observations regarding the application of made-up woollen materials
only remaining to be made.
Accordingly, we shall now proceed to describe the cotton, silk, and other piece goods
employed in the manufacture of the class of garments to which reference has just been
made, and in dealing with this part of our subject we shall commence with the finer before
proceeding to the coarser materials, though many of the last are, commercially, of most
importance.
* Called Kachuree in some dialects of Western India ; the term Cliolee, although strictly applicable to that
which has a back, is the one commonly used.
Kupissa or Kupassa is the name given to the bodice in Mysore, &c.
Buchanan describes the Anggiya as a bodice with very short sleeves, which reaches to the waist, is made
of muslin, and is worn under the Peswaj. The Koortee, by the same authority, is also referred to as having been
introduced into Behar from the west.
The Ungia, as worn with the petticoat, is closed in front and ties behind. The Cholee, worn with the Saree, on the
contrary, is tied in front and closed behind.
Captain Meadows Taylor, to whom we are indebted for some valuable notes under this head of our subject, endorses
Buchanan’s statement, that before the Mahomedan conquests, the bodice, and other needle-made articles were unknown
in India.