chap, iv.] CAPRANICA. 105
not find comfort, he may be sure of its best substitute,
unbounded civility and readiness to oblige. The women
here wear the skirt of their gowns over their heads for a
veil, like Teresa Panza and other Manchegas, and being
very brightly arrayed, are always picturesque. I could
perceive no Roman remains at Capranica, the ancient name
of which has not come down to us. It is three miles
distant from Sutri, eight or more from Vetralla also on
the Via Cassia, three from Bassano, four from Ronciglione,
and nine from Oriuolo. On this latter road I found in
several spots remains of Roman pavement, and about half-
way from Oriuolo, or near Agliola, I observed a long
portion of the road entire, running directly between the
two towns, and probably a cross road connecting the Clau-
dian and Cassian Ways. The church of St. Vincenzo, on
a height above Bassano, is a conspicuous object in this
district, and is the great shrine of the neighbourhood, where,
on the first fortnight in November, a general "perdono"
is dispensed, and the country folks flock in thousands to
obtain remission.
Beyond Capranica, some three or four miles, and a little
off the road to the left, are the ruins of Vicus Matrini, a
station on the Via Cassia,5 still retaining its ancient name,
but having little to show beyond a few crumbhng towers
and sepulchres, all of Roman date; and a mile or so beyond
is a way-side osteria, called Le Capannaccie, which has
sundry relics from the said ancient station embedded in its
walls. This is the highest point of the road, which here
crosses the shoulder of the Ciminian, but its rise is so
gradual as to be scarcely perceptible. The first part of
the road from Capranica passes through shady lanes,
orchards, and vineyards; then it traverses wide tracts of
6 Mentioned in the Peutingerian Table. See page 85.
not find comfort, he may be sure of its best substitute,
unbounded civility and readiness to oblige. The women
here wear the skirt of their gowns over their heads for a
veil, like Teresa Panza and other Manchegas, and being
very brightly arrayed, are always picturesque. I could
perceive no Roman remains at Capranica, the ancient name
of which has not come down to us. It is three miles
distant from Sutri, eight or more from Vetralla also on
the Via Cassia, three from Bassano, four from Ronciglione,
and nine from Oriuolo. On this latter road I found in
several spots remains of Roman pavement, and about half-
way from Oriuolo, or near Agliola, I observed a long
portion of the road entire, running directly between the
two towns, and probably a cross road connecting the Clau-
dian and Cassian Ways. The church of St. Vincenzo, on
a height above Bassano, is a conspicuous object in this
district, and is the great shrine of the neighbourhood, where,
on the first fortnight in November, a general "perdono"
is dispensed, and the country folks flock in thousands to
obtain remission.
Beyond Capranica, some three or four miles, and a little
off the road to the left, are the ruins of Vicus Matrini, a
station on the Via Cassia,5 still retaining its ancient name,
but having little to show beyond a few crumbhng towers
and sepulchres, all of Roman date; and a mile or so beyond
is a way-side osteria, called Le Capannaccie, which has
sundry relics from the said ancient station embedded in its
walls. This is the highest point of the road, which here
crosses the shoulder of the Ciminian, but its rise is so
gradual as to be scarcely perceptible. The first part of
the road from Capranica passes through shady lanes,
orchards, and vineyards; then it traverses wide tracts of
6 Mentioned in the Peutingerian Table. See page 85.