DOI Page / Citation link:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.785#0315
ohap. xiv.] BYE-ROAD PROSPECTS IN ITALY. 213
heavy rains. It would be advisable, especially if ladies
are of the party, to return from Ferento to Viterbo, and to
take the direct road thence to Bomarzo.
This is a village of considerable size situated on a
wooded cliff-bound platform, with an old castle of the
Borghese family at the verge of the precipice. It com-
mands a glorious view of the vale of the Tiber, and the
long chain of Umbrian and Sabine Apennines to the east;
of the vast Etruscan plain to the north, with Monte Fias-
cone like a watch-tower in the midst, and the giant masses
of Monte Cetona and Monte Amiata in the far horizon.
Like most villages in the Papal State, Bomarzo is squalid
in the extreme; so that as we rode down its main street
not a house could we see whose exterior promised decent
accommodation. We pulled up at one of the best, the
Casa Posci, to which we had been directed as a place where
travellers were entertained.
One great point of contrast between Prance and Italy
—I may say, between northern and southern Europe—
is that in every French village or hamlet, be it ever so
small, there is some one house, often several, where Pierre
or Jean so-and-so " donne a boire et a manger," or " loge
a pied et a cheval; " but in Italy such signs are as rare as
notices of spiritual refreshment and halting-places for the
devotee are abundant. Here and there a withered bush at a
doorway shows that wine may be had within ; but as to
an inn, except on the great highways—God save you!
you might as well look for a railway-station. Some one or
more of the most respectable inhabitants of these country-
towns and villages is always, however—thank Mercury!—
ready to entertain the traveller, for a consideration—for
what will not an Italian do for gain ?—especially the
Romans, who, however unlike in most points, resemble
their ancestors in thirst for foreign spoil. Omnia Roma
heavy rains. It would be advisable, especially if ladies
are of the party, to return from Ferento to Viterbo, and to
take the direct road thence to Bomarzo.
This is a village of considerable size situated on a
wooded cliff-bound platform, with an old castle of the
Borghese family at the verge of the precipice. It com-
mands a glorious view of the vale of the Tiber, and the
long chain of Umbrian and Sabine Apennines to the east;
of the vast Etruscan plain to the north, with Monte Fias-
cone like a watch-tower in the midst, and the giant masses
of Monte Cetona and Monte Amiata in the far horizon.
Like most villages in the Papal State, Bomarzo is squalid
in the extreme; so that as we rode down its main street
not a house could we see whose exterior promised decent
accommodation. We pulled up at one of the best, the
Casa Posci, to which we had been directed as a place where
travellers were entertained.
One great point of contrast between Prance and Italy
—I may say, between northern and southern Europe—
is that in every French village or hamlet, be it ever so
small, there is some one house, often several, where Pierre
or Jean so-and-so " donne a boire et a manger," or " loge
a pied et a cheval; " but in Italy such signs are as rare as
notices of spiritual refreshment and halting-places for the
devotee are abundant. Here and there a withered bush at a
doorway shows that wine may be had within ; but as to
an inn, except on the great highways—God save you!
you might as well look for a railway-station. Some one or
more of the most respectable inhabitants of these country-
towns and villages is always, however—thank Mercury!—
ready to entertain the traveller, for a consideration—for
what will not an Italian do for gain ?—especially the
Romans, who, however unlike in most points, resemble
their ancestors in thirst for foreign spoil. Omnia Roma