DOI Seite / Zitierlink:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.20658#0205
COSTUME. 191
With respect to the propriety or becomingness of one mode of dress, taken as a part of the
general idea comprehended under costume, it can only be said that it has its due medium point,
which nothing but good sense and taste can discover and ascertain. Neither can we reasonably
determine to which of the different customs of various ages and countries we ought to give a
preference, since they seem to be all nearly equally agreeable to or removed from nature. The
European, when he has cut off his beard, and put false hair on his head, or bound up his own
natural hair in regular hard knots, as unlike nature as he can possibly make them ; and often
having rendered these immoveable by the help of the fat of hogs, and covered the whole with
flour laid on by a machine with the utmost regularity; when thus attired he sallies forth and
meets a Cherokee Indian, who has bestowed as much time at his toilet, and laid on, with equal
care and attention, his yellow and red ochre, on particular parts of his forehead or cheeks, as he
judges to be the most becoming: whoever of these two persons despises the other for this attention
to the fashion of his country ; whoever first feels himself inclined to laugh, he is the barbarian.
It is in dress as in things of greater consequence. Fashions originate from those only who
have the high and powerful advantages of rank birth and fortune. Many of the ornaments of
art, those at least for which no reason can be given, are transmitted to us, are adopted, and ac-
quire their importance from the company in which we have been used to see them.
As Greece and Rome are the sources from whence have been derived all kinds of excellence,
to that veneration to which these sources are entitled, for the knowledge and pleasure they afford
us, we readily add our approbation of every practice and every ornament which belonged to
them, even to the fashion of their dress. For it is a common observation that not satisfied with
these practices and ornaments in their own proper place, we make no difficulty of dressing mo-
dern heroes or senators in the fashion of the Roman armour or peaceful robe. Nay, we carry
this so far as scarcely to endure a statue in any other drapery.
The figures of the great men of antiquity have come down to us only in sculpture: and in
this branch we possess almost all the specimens of ancient art. We have so far associated
personal dignity to those who are thus represented; and the truth of art to their manner of repre-
sentation, that it is not in our power any longer to separate them. The case however is different
in painting, because no excellent portraits having reached us from antiquity, similar associations
have not been formed in our minds. Hence it comes that we could no more bear the painting
of a modern general, in the Roman military habit, than a statue clothed in the present regimen-
tal uniform. But since we have no ancient portraits, still, to shew how ready we are to follow
prejudices of the same kind, we resort to the best authority among modern artists for a similar
purpose. The great variety of admirable portraits with which Vandyck has enriched this nation,
are not only valued for their real excellence as paintings, but our approbation is extended to the
dresses of his figures, although their only merit is that ihey were fashionable in the artist's own
time.
Some time ago it was common in this country to draw portraits in Vandvck's style: and by
this means very ordinary pictures came to acquire something of the air and effect of the works
of that great master, and consequently appeared much better pictures than they really were, in
the eyes of those who, being accustomed to Vandyck's works, had formed this association of
ideas; and with these persons this association was irresistible. However unreasonable these con-
nexions of objects and ideas may appear, as very nearly approaching to prejudice, still they are
deeply founded in our nature, and not merely capricious. But. besides this predilection for
ancient
With respect to the propriety or becomingness of one mode of dress, taken as a part of the
general idea comprehended under costume, it can only be said that it has its due medium point,
which nothing but good sense and taste can discover and ascertain. Neither can we reasonably
determine to which of the different customs of various ages and countries we ought to give a
preference, since they seem to be all nearly equally agreeable to or removed from nature. The
European, when he has cut off his beard, and put false hair on his head, or bound up his own
natural hair in regular hard knots, as unlike nature as he can possibly make them ; and often
having rendered these immoveable by the help of the fat of hogs, and covered the whole with
flour laid on by a machine with the utmost regularity; when thus attired he sallies forth and
meets a Cherokee Indian, who has bestowed as much time at his toilet, and laid on, with equal
care and attention, his yellow and red ochre, on particular parts of his forehead or cheeks, as he
judges to be the most becoming: whoever of these two persons despises the other for this attention
to the fashion of his country ; whoever first feels himself inclined to laugh, he is the barbarian.
It is in dress as in things of greater consequence. Fashions originate from those only who
have the high and powerful advantages of rank birth and fortune. Many of the ornaments of
art, those at least for which no reason can be given, are transmitted to us, are adopted, and ac-
quire their importance from the company in which we have been used to see them.
As Greece and Rome are the sources from whence have been derived all kinds of excellence,
to that veneration to which these sources are entitled, for the knowledge and pleasure they afford
us, we readily add our approbation of every practice and every ornament which belonged to
them, even to the fashion of their dress. For it is a common observation that not satisfied with
these practices and ornaments in their own proper place, we make no difficulty of dressing mo-
dern heroes or senators in the fashion of the Roman armour or peaceful robe. Nay, we carry
this so far as scarcely to endure a statue in any other drapery.
The figures of the great men of antiquity have come down to us only in sculpture: and in
this branch we possess almost all the specimens of ancient art. We have so far associated
personal dignity to those who are thus represented; and the truth of art to their manner of repre-
sentation, that it is not in our power any longer to separate them. The case however is different
in painting, because no excellent portraits having reached us from antiquity, similar associations
have not been formed in our minds. Hence it comes that we could no more bear the painting
of a modern general, in the Roman military habit, than a statue clothed in the present regimen-
tal uniform. But since we have no ancient portraits, still, to shew how ready we are to follow
prejudices of the same kind, we resort to the best authority among modern artists for a similar
purpose. The great variety of admirable portraits with which Vandyck has enriched this nation,
are not only valued for their real excellence as paintings, but our approbation is extended to the
dresses of his figures, although their only merit is that ihey were fashionable in the artist's own
time.
Some time ago it was common in this country to draw portraits in Vandvck's style: and by
this means very ordinary pictures came to acquire something of the air and effect of the works
of that great master, and consequently appeared much better pictures than they really were, in
the eyes of those who, being accustomed to Vandyck's works, had formed this association of
ideas; and with these persons this association was irresistible. However unreasonable these con-
nexions of objects and ideas may appear, as very nearly approaching to prejudice, still they are
deeply founded in our nature, and not merely capricious. But. besides this predilection for
ancient