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Engelbach, Lewis
Naples and the Campagna Felice: in a series of letters, addressed to a friend in England, in 1802 — London: by R. Ackermann, 1815

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https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.53553#0115
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All tliis by the way. Anselmo was now going to take me
to another neighbouring convent, to see some other pious
curiosity—God knows what; but I had enough of spiritual
shows for the present. The rays of the sun, besides, had
nearly become perpendicular, and scorched me at least, al-
though no saint, almost to a mummy. I therefore civilly
declined his offer, and proposed an immediate return to Poz-
zuoli, whither we forthwith shaped our course by a new and
more direct road. On our way home, we passed a stupen-
dous ruin of a great aqueduct, with a triple tier of arches, en-
tirely of bricks; some of which, and especially those which
lined the arches, appeared of an unusual magnitude, not
less than eighteen inches square, and beautifully manufac-
tured and baked. This must have been the principal aque-
duct of ancient Puteoli.
On our return to Pozzuoli, we found our friend, Don
Giacomo, who had but just returned from his excursion of
business. I lost no time in thanking him for his present of
wine; and, some time afterwards, produced my telescope,
which he admired exceedingly, but would on no account ac-
cept of so valuable an article, until I was absolutely obliged
to threaten him with my instant departure in case of non-
compliance.
The manners of the Neapolitans in this respect are rather
singular. If any thing in your possession, such as a watch,
snuff-box, ring, &c. happens to be admired by another,
good breeding requires that you should immediately tender
it to him—nay, insist, in as strong terms as the Neapolitan
idiom affords (which is saying a great deal), on his accepting
of the same. Good breeding, on the other hand, equally
demands, that the other party should as strongly decline the
present, under a variation of courteous excuses; till, after
a considerable waste of time and words, the thing remains

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