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411
ancient columns to form the gravestone of a Turk. How
changed is the scene now! Hundreds of peasants, and thou-
sands of cattle, sheep, goats, oxen, and camels, cover the an-
cient city, and continue to arrive in long trains: the people
are actively employed in pitching their tents, while the
cattle are grazing over their new pastures. These pastoral
people migrate from the valley; when the herbage becomes
scanty there, the whole village moves into the hills, keeping
together, the better to protect their nocks from the wolves
and other animals.
Crossing the valley of the Lycus, I again visited Hiera-
polis, and rambled far among its varied and splendid tombs;
the ruins are more extensive than I had fancied on my pre-
vious visit, but my opinion of them remains the same.
May 28th, Smyrna.—I have neglected my Journal during
the last five days, for my route has been precisely that of
my former journey, passing down the valley of the Cogamus
to Philadelphia, Sardis, and on to Cassabar. The season,
although somewhat later, afforded the same display of fruit
and flowers ; the corn was falling to the sickle, and the flowers
fading to seed. The caravans were again travelling by night
to avoid the heat of the day, a mode which we are in some
degree compelled to adopt, by starting at two o'clock each
morning. Passing over a country by night deprives the tra-
veller of the pleasure of observation, and substitutes fatigue;
on this account alone I was rejoiced at the termination of a
journey so pleasurable in itself, and promising to afford me
subjects of high interest for research and reflection to the
end of my life.
T
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