PALMYRA AND THE REGION OF THE HAURAN
7i
It was at this point of the journey that the caravan was composed of the largest
number of animals. There were twenty horses, thirty mules, seventeen donkeys, and
fifteen camels, or a total of eighty-two. The men numbered forty-four, including
both natives and foreigners.
In the middle of the afternoon of May 1st it became evident that our guide was
uncertain how far we were from the proposed camping-place. He now informed us
that he believed we were only a third of the way to Palmyra from Isriyeh, although
we had been traveling perhaps more than seven hours. We stopped to consider the
problem before us. We were uncertain whether to give the heavily laden animals a
rest or to march on for some distance. The camp men began to be surly and unruly
and complained of being badly treated. We soon decided that it would be best to go
a little further and then encamp for the night. We selected a camping-site about
800 meters above sea-level, on the slope of a hill overlooking a rolling country which
was framed by high mountains. We did not know when water would be found, so
the supply carried in goatskins on the camels was used sparingly and the six
members of the Expedition had to be content with a few sips from their large water-
flasks and to limit carefully the amount used in washing. In the evening we were
somewhat startled by a number of hashes of lightning accompanied by peals of
thunder. Then the wind blew in gusts. We were led by these happenings to hope
for rain, but only a few drops fell, not enough to help us even if we had had suitable
vessels to catch them in. Before dawn on the 2d of May we arose and pre-
pared to continue the journey, for it was necessary to find water very soon. The
stars were still shining brightly and sunrise did not come until an hour afterward,
when we were through breakfast and ready to start. The morning was cold and
raw. The bad humor of the muleteers had increased rather than diminished over
night. They feared that we would not be able to find water during the entire day.
The result of such a calamity would assuredly have been deplorable, but we main-
tained a cheerful demeanor in order to counteract somewhat the surly temper displayed
by the camp men. To add to our troubles, one of the horses died during the night,
but his malady was not traceable to the lack of water. Another showed signs of
having tetanus, which was undoubtedly due to the galling of his saddle. He also
succumbed a day or so later. The man in charge of the horse did not know how to
take care of him, and under the curious system of camp management in vogue in
Syria the dragoman could not dictate to him in a matter of this sort.
We had been traveling southeastward for about an hour and a half when one of
the men discovered a pool of water in the bed of a stream that was otherwise dry.
The men almost plunged into it in their eagerness to get bucketfuls for the animals.
Their anger was banished in an instant. The severest part of the storm of the night
before had swept along not far from this spot, and some of the rain-water had Rowed
7i
It was at this point of the journey that the caravan was composed of the largest
number of animals. There were twenty horses, thirty mules, seventeen donkeys, and
fifteen camels, or a total of eighty-two. The men numbered forty-four, including
both natives and foreigners.
In the middle of the afternoon of May 1st it became evident that our guide was
uncertain how far we were from the proposed camping-place. He now informed us
that he believed we were only a third of the way to Palmyra from Isriyeh, although
we had been traveling perhaps more than seven hours. We stopped to consider the
problem before us. We were uncertain whether to give the heavily laden animals a
rest or to march on for some distance. The camp men began to be surly and unruly
and complained of being badly treated. We soon decided that it would be best to go
a little further and then encamp for the night. We selected a camping-site about
800 meters above sea-level, on the slope of a hill overlooking a rolling country which
was framed by high mountains. We did not know when water would be found, so
the supply carried in goatskins on the camels was used sparingly and the six
members of the Expedition had to be content with a few sips from their large water-
flasks and to limit carefully the amount used in washing. In the evening we were
somewhat startled by a number of hashes of lightning accompanied by peals of
thunder. Then the wind blew in gusts. We were led by these happenings to hope
for rain, but only a few drops fell, not enough to help us even if we had had suitable
vessels to catch them in. Before dawn on the 2d of May we arose and pre-
pared to continue the journey, for it was necessary to find water very soon. The
stars were still shining brightly and sunrise did not come until an hour afterward,
when we were through breakfast and ready to start. The morning was cold and
raw. The bad humor of the muleteers had increased rather than diminished over
night. They feared that we would not be able to find water during the entire day.
The result of such a calamity would assuredly have been deplorable, but we main-
tained a cheerful demeanor in order to counteract somewhat the surly temper displayed
by the camp men. To add to our troubles, one of the horses died during the night,
but his malady was not traceable to the lack of water. Another showed signs of
having tetanus, which was undoubtedly due to the galling of his saddle. He also
succumbed a day or so later. The man in charge of the horse did not know how to
take care of him, and under the curious system of camp management in vogue in
Syria the dragoman could not dictate to him in a matter of this sort.
We had been traveling southeastward for about an hour and a half when one of
the men discovered a pool of water in the bed of a stream that was otherwise dry.
The men almost plunged into it in their eagerness to get bucketfuls for the animals.
Their anger was banished in an instant. The severest part of the storm of the night
before had swept along not far from this spot, and some of the rain-water had Rowed