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Gourbillon, Joseph Antoine de
Travels in Sicily and to Mount Etna in 1819 — London, 1820

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16 Gourbillon's Travels in Sicily, in 1819.

absolutely untrue. Like the public promenades of all other
cities in the world, the Marino of Palermo has its hours, more
or less fixed, and which vary according to times and seasons.
Open to all classes, every one appears in the dress convenient
to the individual; and as to persons of the first rank, so far are
they from contenting themselves with undresses, that their cos-
tume is, on the contrary, of the most elegant and splendid
kind. And as to the darkness of Brydone and Borch, it
disappeared long ago, before the rays of multitudes of lamps,
with which the carriages, and the promenade itself, are abun-
dantly supplied.

The nights of Italy, a little too much vaunted, are not the
nights of Palermo. There reigns, almost always in this city,
and particularly in the Marino, a haziness which, rising from
the sea, extends over the whole place, and is sufficient to ob-
scure the purest and brightest sky. Apparently, it was not so
in the time of Borch, for he exhausts himself in panegyrics on
the beauty of the moonlight at Palermo. Brydone has not a
word on the subject.

However this may be, this fine promenade would be still
more precious if it were true that it could be frequented at all
times of the day. But such is the indifference of the govern-
ment to all that belongs to the convenience, or even the health
of its subjects that, throughout the whole length of this burning
arena, the eye does not encounter a single tree or building
which can afford shade. It is only very recently that an ave-
nue of trees has been planted along the walls of the city; and
those trees are yet only young, and will require a long time
before they can afford the shade which it is their object to
supply.

It is singular enough, that northern countries take precau-
tions against the heat, which are unknown in hot climates.
The canals of the Dutch towns, and their trees casting their
protecting shade around, are a striking critique on the naked
and burning soil which forms the promenade at Palermo. The
same may be said of precautions against the cold, whether at
Rome, or Naples, or any part of Sicily. The use of cbimnies
is nearly unknown; and during seven or eight months in the
year, they would be found as necessary as at Paris, Amster-
dam, or London. This unaccountable negligence is peculiarly
observable at Palermo, in the streets and dwellings. No lat-
tices, or blinds, are used against the extremest heat; except,
indeed, a*kind of doors, which the moment they are closed
compel you to cry out for lights, lights which, made of cotton
floating in the rankest oil, leave you no choice but between an
impoisoned air or the scorching beams of the sun.
 
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