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Chap, v.]

HASSAN AGHA KIEUI.

79

an oda or lodging, by means of a thin partition of wattle and
mud, which separated us from some horses, who, by their
constant pushing against it all night, threatened the imme-
diate demolition of the frail tenement. Our host, a poor old
man, on being ashed whether he ever saw or found any coins
or eski para (old money), replied that he never saw either
old or new j and yet he sent us a substantial meal, consisting
of two barley loaves, two large onions, and a mess of sweet-
meat called boulamah, made of honey; vinegar, and fresh
Wine,* mixed up together. Sentences from the Koran,
written on thick paper or parchment, were stuck up as
charms on the crazy walls.

March 26.—We left Hassan Agha Kieiii before six, and
on reaching the summit of the hills, obtained a fine view of
the lake of Apollonia, with several islands on its surface.
On our descent we continued along the foot of the moun-
tains on the left, with an extensive plain on our right, until
7h. 20m., when we found ourselves abreast of the lake. At
8h. 5m. we were travelling through a wide and richly culti-
vated plain between the mountains and the lake; where
corn, vineyards, and mulberry-plantations occupied the
greatest space. The wooded hills on the left consisted of
limestone, apparently of the scaglia formation. The water
in the lake was very high, reaching to the upper branches
of the trees, now a long way off from the shore, but which
were on dry land in summer; we were consequently
obliged to wind round many deep bays and inlets of the
lake, although the real road runs directly across from one
headland to another. At other times we found ourselves
on the hill side, amidst a great variety of shrubs and
flowers, chiefly arbutus and bay, growing luxuriantly, and
were often obliged to force our way through the odoriferous
bay trees closely matted together with various creepers, and
over rugged and rocky paths. Here we were constantly
looking out for the Rhyndacus, as we had not yet crossed

* This was the description given mc at the time; but I rather think it must have
been the unfermented juice of the grape boiled down to a thick jelly.
 
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