174
MASSAT.
[fCHAP. XI.
the valley of the Tchoruk, along which we continued, until
we reached the Armenian village of Massat, at three p.m.,
distant six hours from Baibourt. At a little distance the
fifty or sixty underground houses, of which the village con-
sisted, could only be distinguished from the smooth hill side
by the square holes which serve as doors and windows, while
the roofs were completely covered with herbage, affording
pasture for the cattle. It was also singular to see both
man and beast disappear in their troglodytic dwellings,
like rabbits in their holes. The filth of these subterranean
habitations was indescribable. We were shown one of the
best and largest, but it served for stable as well as dwell-
ing, a small portion being railed off and raised for the
bipeds, whilst the rest was littered down for the quadru-
peds. Over this larger portion there is generally an inge-
niously-constructed opening in the wooden roof. The
villagers complained much of the increased price of pro-
visions since the Russian war, and mentioned, as instances,
that a sheep which was formerly worth 14 piastres could
not now be obtained under 60; and that the value of an
ox was raised from 40 to 120 piastres.
May 29.—So completely was sleep banished by the attacks
of vermin of various kinds, that we roused our people soon
after two, and prepared to quit a scene of so much misery.
By half-past four the baggage-horses were loaded, and we
bade adieu to Massat in a most refreshing and cleansing
rain, which did not last long enough to be disagreeable.
Proceeding E.N.E. we rejoined the valley of the Tchoruk
in about two miles, and then continued along its banks for
about three miles farther. At half-past six we left the
Tchoruk, and ascended a narrow lateral valley to the right,
where we fell in with a large caravan from Persia: in it
were many fine mules, whose appearance indicated that
they were a valuable property. For nearly three miles we
had the stream on our left, flowing with many and sudden
windings through the meadows. A little way on we passed
a small chalybeate sulphureous spring, in the act of forming
MASSAT.
[fCHAP. XI.
the valley of the Tchoruk, along which we continued, until
we reached the Armenian village of Massat, at three p.m.,
distant six hours from Baibourt. At a little distance the
fifty or sixty underground houses, of which the village con-
sisted, could only be distinguished from the smooth hill side
by the square holes which serve as doors and windows, while
the roofs were completely covered with herbage, affording
pasture for the cattle. It was also singular to see both
man and beast disappear in their troglodytic dwellings,
like rabbits in their holes. The filth of these subterranean
habitations was indescribable. We were shown one of the
best and largest, but it served for stable as well as dwell-
ing, a small portion being railed off and raised for the
bipeds, whilst the rest was littered down for the quadru-
peds. Over this larger portion there is generally an inge-
niously-constructed opening in the wooden roof. The
villagers complained much of the increased price of pro-
visions since the Russian war, and mentioned, as instances,
that a sheep which was formerly worth 14 piastres could
not now be obtained under 60; and that the value of an
ox was raised from 40 to 120 piastres.
May 29.—So completely was sleep banished by the attacks
of vermin of various kinds, that we roused our people soon
after two, and prepared to quit a scene of so much misery.
By half-past four the baggage-horses were loaded, and we
bade adieu to Massat in a most refreshing and cleansing
rain, which did not last long enough to be disagreeable.
Proceeding E.N.E. we rejoined the valley of the Tchoruk
in about two miles, and then continued along its banks for
about three miles farther. At half-past six we left the
Tchoruk, and ascended a narrow lateral valley to the right,
where we fell in with a large caravan from Persia: in it
were many fine mules, whose appearance indicated that
they were a valuable property. For nearly three miles we
had the stream on our left, flowing with many and sudden
windings through the meadows. A little way on we passed
a small chalybeate sulphureous spring, in the act of forming