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enter galatia.—soungourli.

[Chap, xxiii.

the middle of the plain. This gradually narrowed, and
between the seventh and eighth mile we found ourselves
ascending the hills by a narrow valley, where we passed an
encampment of Turcomans; and at ten a.m. reached the
summit of the ridge, whence we descended by a similar
valley, along the banks of a stream flowing into the Halys.
This ridge, therefore, may be considered as the separation
between Pontus and Galatia. The larorc village of Salman
Kieui was a conspicuous object in the plain below us about
six miles off to the W.S.W. Our course was still along
the lulls which formed its northern limits, until at half-
past eleven we reached the plain watered by a stream
flowing north for two or three miles. Here also were many
Turcoman tents pitched on the low marshy ground, while
their separate flocks collected on the surrounding hills had a
picturesque appearance, and the large herds or droves of
camels were grazing in a different direction.

We forded the river at a quarter before twelve, and
ascended the hills on the left, and after two miles in a
N.W. direction over the brow of the hill again descended
to the valley, in which we continued five miles until we
reached Soungourli, after crossing to the north or right bank
of the river. Rich and well-watered gardens and shady or-
chards skirt its banks for more than a mile and a half
above the town, where we arrived a few minutes before
two ; but a great part of the place was in ruins, and many
uninhabited houses were crumbling to dust, proving that
the same destructive elements were at work here as in other
parts of Turkey. The new conscriptions and levies were
everywhere described as a most oppressive measure, the
effect of which was to depopulate whole districts, in conse-
quence of the young men being removed to the capital.

I lodged in a Turkish house, and a miserable place it
was, though my landlord was one of the chief men of the
town. Last year he was Menzilji or post master, and com-
plained of it as a most ruinous business; he said that he
was only allowed 1000 piastres a year, or two purses, and
 
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