Chap, xxx.]
XEBEQUES.
527
tlic Macandcr flows between low sandy hills, uncultivated,
and covered with the Agnus castus, now in full flower. This
narrow pass is a place of great resort; we halted a short
time at the cafe crowded with Xebeques and cam el-drivers;
on leaving it the valley immediately widened, the country
assumed a different character, and vineyards and fig-orchards
were abundant along the foot of the hills; the latter, how-
ever, had suffered much from the frost of the preceding
winter ; many of the trees were killed, and little or no crop
was expected this year. The pass probably marked the
boundary between Phrygia and Caria, and must have been
near the site of Carura on the banks of the Masander, a name
which seems to indicate the frontiers of Caria, being perhaps
derived from >t£gwv o5§or (the boundary of the Carians). Here
we entered the proper district of the Xebeques, and found
them established at all the guard-houses and coffee-houses the
whole way to Aidin, five or six well-armed men being stationed
by the government at each of these posts for the protection of
travellers; but I believe they can act the part of thieves as
well as thief-takers, according to circumstances; at least the
Greeks of the neighbourhood, recollecting their former enor-
mities, tremble at their name. They have been lately subdued,
but are still the most ferocious-looking, dare-devil, impudent
set of fellows I ever saw; their costume, as unique as it is
picturesque, is only worn by the young men, the more aged
contenting themselves with the simple attire of the Turkish
peasant. The high turban towering above the head, with
many folds and fringes and tassels hanging over the face, has
a very swaggering look; numerous pistols, dirks, and yata-
o-hans adorn and set off their embroidered vests and sashes
while the tight white breeches, drawn into ample folds be-
hind, betray an active and sinewy leg, contrary to all received
notions of Turkish ideas of decorum.
The road was for some distance very stony, and the plain,
covered with diluvial gravel, produced nothing but thorns
and Agnus castus. On the south side of the Maeander the
steep and almost barren hills rose directly from the water's
XEBEQUES.
527
tlic Macandcr flows between low sandy hills, uncultivated,
and covered with the Agnus castus, now in full flower. This
narrow pass is a place of great resort; we halted a short
time at the cafe crowded with Xebeques and cam el-drivers;
on leaving it the valley immediately widened, the country
assumed a different character, and vineyards and fig-orchards
were abundant along the foot of the hills; the latter, how-
ever, had suffered much from the frost of the preceding
winter ; many of the trees were killed, and little or no crop
was expected this year. The pass probably marked the
boundary between Phrygia and Caria, and must have been
near the site of Carura on the banks of the Masander, a name
which seems to indicate the frontiers of Caria, being perhaps
derived from >t£gwv o5§or (the boundary of the Carians). Here
we entered the proper district of the Xebeques, and found
them established at all the guard-houses and coffee-houses the
whole way to Aidin, five or six well-armed men being stationed
by the government at each of these posts for the protection of
travellers; but I believe they can act the part of thieves as
well as thief-takers, according to circumstances; at least the
Greeks of the neighbourhood, recollecting their former enor-
mities, tremble at their name. They have been lately subdued,
but are still the most ferocious-looking, dare-devil, impudent
set of fellows I ever saw; their costume, as unique as it is
picturesque, is only worn by the young men, the more aged
contenting themselves with the simple attire of the Turkish
peasant. The high turban towering above the head, with
many folds and fringes and tassels hanging over the face, has
a very swaggering look; numerous pistols, dirks, and yata-
o-hans adorn and set off their embroidered vests and sashes
while the tight white breeches, drawn into ample folds be-
hind, betray an active and sinewy leg, contrary to all received
notions of Turkish ideas of decorum.
The road was for some distance very stony, and the plain,
covered with diluvial gravel, produced nothing but thorns
and Agnus castus. On the south side of the Maeander the
steep and almost barren hills rose directly from the water's