DOI Seite / Zitierlink:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.4679#0067
3. HISTORY, TRADE, FINANCE. 41
hirros, apparently of western origin. It was produced in two kinds,
one of which was an imitation of the manufacture of the Nervii, who
inhabited the country which is now French Flanders (Ed. Diocl. 16,
12, : 3, 76). The imitation kind was finer and more expensive than
the native Laodicean hirros K
Tunics or under-sarments of two different kinds at least were
made in Laodiceia. The Delmaticae2 are described as plain, without
pmbroidery or purple border. They were woven of three different
threads, which probably differed in thickness or in colour, and thus
produced a pattern. The stuff called at the present day Greek or
Smyrna muslin is woven in two fine and one thick thread, the latter
forming a series of stripes and at the same time giving the material
the crinkled appearance which is noticeable in ancient Greek stuffs
as they are represented both in marble and on vases 3. Such three-
thread tunics were called triraita ; and the Laodicean trimita were so
famous, that the city bears the epithet Trimitaria in some fourth and
fifth century documents, e. g. the lists of the Council of Chalcedon.
The other class of tunics, called paragaudia, had a border of purple
round the foot. A price was fixed for the plain part, and the value of
the purple Avas added to this, varying according to the breadth 4.
Another species of garment woven at Laodiceia (Ed. Diocl. Ill 22
Loring) called Phainoula was perhaps like the paenulae of the early
Empire, a kind of outer garment, so woven as to resist rain. As
Galba said (Quintilian VI 3, 66), non pluit.non opus est tibi ; si pluit
ipse utar (paenula).
The Chlanides5 were an imitation of the fine woollen stuffs of
Modena6, and were embroidered with gold or silk. They were a sort
of outer garment worn by both sexes. The art of embroidering was
believed by the ancients to be native to Phrygia7.
Each different kind of garment was woven in its proper shape and
1 Waddington 535 p. 174. 5 So probably; not Chlamydes: see
2 16, 14 AfA/iaTiKi) iia-rjfMos AaoStKrjvfi Loring in Journ. Hell. Stud. 1890 p. 335.
rpijiiros. 6 Mr. Loring is certainly wrong in
3 In this sentence I quote in her own suggesting that it was the Laodicean
words the observation of Mrs. Ramsay. manufacture that was imitated at Mo-
Trimita and Fibuhitoria were also manu- dena : the distinction is MovTovvfjtna 8a-
factured at Pessinus, as is sliown by two \aa-aia, sea-borne and therefore genuine
fragments of an inscription, still unpub- Modenese, and MovTovvfj<na AhoSik^to,
lisbed, which I copied at Bala-Hissar Laodicean Modenese. ■
and at Sivri Hissar in 1883. 7 Hence in Latin Phrygio = enibroi-
4 16, 15 napayaCSiv AaoSiKrjvov jrpoori- derer : cp. Pliny VIII 195. Testes Fhry-
6ep.evr]s ttjs rdfxrjs rijr 7rop<pipas ra vrri- giae (Aeneid III 484) are embroidered
[\0J7ra iKkoyuaBai Sh . . . garments, Bliimner Technol. I 209.
hirros, apparently of western origin. It was produced in two kinds,
one of which was an imitation of the manufacture of the Nervii, who
inhabited the country which is now French Flanders (Ed. Diocl. 16,
12, : 3, 76). The imitation kind was finer and more expensive than
the native Laodicean hirros K
Tunics or under-sarments of two different kinds at least were
made in Laodiceia. The Delmaticae2 are described as plain, without
pmbroidery or purple border. They were woven of three different
threads, which probably differed in thickness or in colour, and thus
produced a pattern. The stuff called at the present day Greek or
Smyrna muslin is woven in two fine and one thick thread, the latter
forming a series of stripes and at the same time giving the material
the crinkled appearance which is noticeable in ancient Greek stuffs
as they are represented both in marble and on vases 3. Such three-
thread tunics were called triraita ; and the Laodicean trimita were so
famous, that the city bears the epithet Trimitaria in some fourth and
fifth century documents, e. g. the lists of the Council of Chalcedon.
The other class of tunics, called paragaudia, had a border of purple
round the foot. A price was fixed for the plain part, and the value of
the purple Avas added to this, varying according to the breadth 4.
Another species of garment woven at Laodiceia (Ed. Diocl. Ill 22
Loring) called Phainoula was perhaps like the paenulae of the early
Empire, a kind of outer garment, so woven as to resist rain. As
Galba said (Quintilian VI 3, 66), non pluit.non opus est tibi ; si pluit
ipse utar (paenula).
The Chlanides5 were an imitation of the fine woollen stuffs of
Modena6, and were embroidered with gold or silk. They were a sort
of outer garment worn by both sexes. The art of embroidering was
believed by the ancients to be native to Phrygia7.
Each different kind of garment was woven in its proper shape and
1 Waddington 535 p. 174. 5 So probably; not Chlamydes: see
2 16, 14 AfA/iaTiKi) iia-rjfMos AaoStKrjvfi Loring in Journ. Hell. Stud. 1890 p. 335.
rpijiiros. 6 Mr. Loring is certainly wrong in
3 In this sentence I quote in her own suggesting that it was the Laodicean
words the observation of Mrs. Ramsay. manufacture that was imitated at Mo-
Trimita and Fibuhitoria were also manu- dena : the distinction is MovTovvfjtna 8a-
factured at Pessinus, as is sliown by two \aa-aia, sea-borne and therefore genuine
fragments of an inscription, still unpub- Modenese, and MovTovvfj<na AhoSik^to,
lisbed, which I copied at Bala-Hissar Laodicean Modenese. ■
and at Sivri Hissar in 1883. 7 Hence in Latin Phrygio = enibroi-
4 16, 15 napayaCSiv AaoSiKrjvov jrpoori- derer : cp. Pliny VIII 195. Testes Fhry-
6ep.evr]s ttjs rdfxrjs rijr 7rop<pipas ra vrri- giae (Aeneid III 484) are embroidered
[\0J7ra iKkoyuaBai Sh . . . garments, Bliimner Technol. I 209.