DOI Page / Citation link:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.4855#0012
ANCIENT MONUMENTS OF LYDIA AND PHRYGIA. 7
This is, properly speaking, only the yaila, or summer residence of the villagers; and the wooden
huts had all been recently constructed. We were now within three or four hours of Gombet-li; and
as we are told that the village of Gherris is only four hours distant, we must have made a long-
detour.
Next morning, after breakfast, we went to see some antiquities which the headman of the village
described as being one hour distant. These proved to be sepulchral excavations on the side of a
craggy rock of a very romantic appearance. Several of them were Christian, and the fresco painting
still adhered to the walls; only one of these excavations exhibited an inscription. We did not leave
Kurkh till the afternoon, as we had so short a distance to go. We began our journey by descending in
the direction of north-west by a defile, at the outlet of which stood a rock which had a most remarkable
resemblance to a monkey seated: see Plate V. We then crossed a fine plain watered by a stream; Monkey-pass
Plate V.
and after passing a small village, we commenced a gentle ascent, and soon came on the western
extremity of the plain of Gombet-li; on the road we observed a number of fine agates and jaspers.
Gombet-li has a singular appearance from afar. The town is situated on a basaltic rock, and is Gombet-li.
surmounted by a handsome-looking dome, from which it derives its name. The form of the rock
gives it the appearance of a fortification; while a number of craggy eminences arising out of the
plain, or near the sides of the surrounding hills, full of sepulchral caves, and some of them perforated
like houses, add greatly to the singularity of the scene.
We were three hours and a half on the road. A fine stream meanders through the plain. We
crossed it by a bridge about a mile from the town; but to our great surprise we did not meet a
single human being. The same solitude pervaded the town, all the streets of which we traversed
hallooing lustily, in the hope of rousing some one of the inhabitants. Vain hope! nothing but a
dismal echo responded to our shouts. We penetrated into the Aga's court, and even into the recesses
of the dome, without encountering a single creature save two or three half-starved cats, who came
mewing about us, as if happy once more to recognise a human face.
Full of perplexity, we entered a house which had the appearance of an oda. Here we made
a fire ; but it took us a full hour before we could obtain any water: all the fountains being dry, we
had to grope our way back to the bridge in the dark before we got any. We then prepared such
a supper as our scanty means afforded; after which, stretching ourselves on our carpets, we resigned
ourselves to Providence, and soon were overtaken with the refreshing slumbers we were so much in
need of after the fatigues of a busy and anxious day.
26th. We were up with the dawn; and soon after, a man on horseback, with his domestic,
passed under our balcony. From him we learnt that the inhabitants had left the village for their yaila,
or summer residence. He pointed out to us a place where we should find a spring of excellent
water; and shortly after, other villagers, returning to their rustic occupations, made their appearance.
An Avjee, or chasseur, volunteered as guide to the Yazeli-kuya, and other antiquities in the neigh-
bourhood— the number and importance of which he greatly magnified. Being Friday, all the
notables came to perform their devotions at the Mosque; and we had no want of company, every
one assuring us that we were the first people in the Frank dress that had ever appeared in their
village.
We found we had made a great prize, there being a beautiful sepulchre under the Aga's house: Aga's house.
Plate VI.
see Plate VI. Opposite our oda there are many sepulchral chambers in the rocks, at the distance
of about a mile and a half. Many of these tombs were ornamented with frontispieces in the shape
of small temples, and had short inscriptions without dates.
27th May. We started after breakfast, under the escort of the Avjee, in a south-east direction;
This is, properly speaking, only the yaila, or summer residence of the villagers; and the wooden
huts had all been recently constructed. We were now within three or four hours of Gombet-li; and
as we are told that the village of Gherris is only four hours distant, we must have made a long-
detour.
Next morning, after breakfast, we went to see some antiquities which the headman of the village
described as being one hour distant. These proved to be sepulchral excavations on the side of a
craggy rock of a very romantic appearance. Several of them were Christian, and the fresco painting
still adhered to the walls; only one of these excavations exhibited an inscription. We did not leave
Kurkh till the afternoon, as we had so short a distance to go. We began our journey by descending in
the direction of north-west by a defile, at the outlet of which stood a rock which had a most remarkable
resemblance to a monkey seated: see Plate V. We then crossed a fine plain watered by a stream; Monkey-pass
Plate V.
and after passing a small village, we commenced a gentle ascent, and soon came on the western
extremity of the plain of Gombet-li; on the road we observed a number of fine agates and jaspers.
Gombet-li has a singular appearance from afar. The town is situated on a basaltic rock, and is Gombet-li.
surmounted by a handsome-looking dome, from which it derives its name. The form of the rock
gives it the appearance of a fortification; while a number of craggy eminences arising out of the
plain, or near the sides of the surrounding hills, full of sepulchral caves, and some of them perforated
like houses, add greatly to the singularity of the scene.
We were three hours and a half on the road. A fine stream meanders through the plain. We
crossed it by a bridge about a mile from the town; but to our great surprise we did not meet a
single human being. The same solitude pervaded the town, all the streets of which we traversed
hallooing lustily, in the hope of rousing some one of the inhabitants. Vain hope! nothing but a
dismal echo responded to our shouts. We penetrated into the Aga's court, and even into the recesses
of the dome, without encountering a single creature save two or three half-starved cats, who came
mewing about us, as if happy once more to recognise a human face.
Full of perplexity, we entered a house which had the appearance of an oda. Here we made
a fire ; but it took us a full hour before we could obtain any water: all the fountains being dry, we
had to grope our way back to the bridge in the dark before we got any. We then prepared such
a supper as our scanty means afforded; after which, stretching ourselves on our carpets, we resigned
ourselves to Providence, and soon were overtaken with the refreshing slumbers we were so much in
need of after the fatigues of a busy and anxious day.
26th. We were up with the dawn; and soon after, a man on horseback, with his domestic,
passed under our balcony. From him we learnt that the inhabitants had left the village for their yaila,
or summer residence. He pointed out to us a place where we should find a spring of excellent
water; and shortly after, other villagers, returning to their rustic occupations, made their appearance.
An Avjee, or chasseur, volunteered as guide to the Yazeli-kuya, and other antiquities in the neigh-
bourhood— the number and importance of which he greatly magnified. Being Friday, all the
notables came to perform their devotions at the Mosque; and we had no want of company, every
one assuring us that we were the first people in the Frank dress that had ever appeared in their
village.
We found we had made a great prize, there being a beautiful sepulchre under the Aga's house: Aga's house.
Plate VI.
see Plate VI. Opposite our oda there are many sepulchral chambers in the rocks, at the distance
of about a mile and a half. Many of these tombs were ornamented with frontispieces in the shape
of small temples, and had short inscriptions without dates.
27th May. We started after breakfast, under the escort of the Avjee, in a south-east direction;