DOI Page / Citation link:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.25990#0059
LOONGEES AND DIIOTEES.
31
10. Cotton.—Dyed; Borders and Ends printed.
No. 58, Vol. II. and No. 130, Vol. IV., afford illustrations of printing brought to bear upon
the production of garment pieces of the class now under notice. No. 58, 8 yards 9 inches
long, 1 yard 10 inches wide, weighing 1 lb. 1.1 oz. and costing 7s., is a badly dyed pale
pink with narrow (i inch) figured borders in chocolate and black. At each end there are
two cross stripes, one similar to the border, the other narrower and entirely chocolate
colour. From Masulipatam, Madras.
No. 130, though poor in execution, shows tolerably well how printing may accomplish
a desired effect.
The body is the dull but favourite red,* with squares of white spots. The borders
(If inch wide) are black with white dotted pattern. There are two cross stripes at each
end (one 31? and the other If inches) of the same pattern as the border, but separated to
the extent of 6 inches by a pattern of flowered pines. Length, 2 yards 3 inches ; width,
1 yard 6 inches, weight ounces, price Is. From Surat, Bombay.
We come now to the coloured cotton Loongees and Dhotees in which silk is introduced
into the ends and borders in order to add to their attractiveness. In manufacturing this
class of goods it is important that the borders should be stiff and thick, and that the weft
should not appear through the silk.
11. Cotton.—Coloured or dyed; Silk Ends; no Borders.
Nos. 97 and 99, Vol III., are from Kohat, an important wool-producing district.
The first is dark blue without a border, but plain and figured stripes, in coloured silk
and cotton, are woven across each end to a depth of 9 inches. This piece is 10 yards long
by 37 inches wide, and weighs lib. 12oz.
No. 99 is of a similar character, except that across each end the stripes are of red and
yellow silk and 2| inches wide. The dimensions of this sample are; length 3 yards, width
1 yard 2 inches, and weight 1 lb. 1 oz.
These are examples of a garment which is extensively used by both sexes in the valleys
west of Kohat.
12. Cotton.—Coloured or dyed; Silk Borders; coloured Cotton Ends.
No. 103, is also from Kohat, and is of dark blue cotton, with a plain 1-inch stripe of
red along the border. Each end is marked by a weft of white thread for a depth of 9 inches.
The length is 4 yards 17 inches, width 1 yard 6 inches, weight 1 lb. 15 oz. Commonly worn
by the men of the Ayrore valley in the Kohat district.
The body pattern of No. 108 is a small check of red and white on a green ground.
It has a 2],-inch stripe of crimson silk in the border, and the ends are varied by a narrow
stripe pattern crossed by faint stripes of green. This piece, which is 2 yards 3 inches long
by 1 yard 6 inches wide, and weighs 8 ounces, is from Surat in Bombay. The price in 1854
was 4s.
* The favourite reds, as a rule, are dark ones. The Turkey reds and other variations of pure madder dje
colours are extremely popular, not merely on account of the colour, hut because that colour is a fast one—a most
important consideration with the native customer, owing to the very frequent washing of a rough character.
31
10. Cotton.—Dyed; Borders and Ends printed.
No. 58, Vol. II. and No. 130, Vol. IV., afford illustrations of printing brought to bear upon
the production of garment pieces of the class now under notice. No. 58, 8 yards 9 inches
long, 1 yard 10 inches wide, weighing 1 lb. 1.1 oz. and costing 7s., is a badly dyed pale
pink with narrow (i inch) figured borders in chocolate and black. At each end there are
two cross stripes, one similar to the border, the other narrower and entirely chocolate
colour. From Masulipatam, Madras.
No. 130, though poor in execution, shows tolerably well how printing may accomplish
a desired effect.
The body is the dull but favourite red,* with squares of white spots. The borders
(If inch wide) are black with white dotted pattern. There are two cross stripes at each
end (one 31? and the other If inches) of the same pattern as the border, but separated to
the extent of 6 inches by a pattern of flowered pines. Length, 2 yards 3 inches ; width,
1 yard 6 inches, weight ounces, price Is. From Surat, Bombay.
We come now to the coloured cotton Loongees and Dhotees in which silk is introduced
into the ends and borders in order to add to their attractiveness. In manufacturing this
class of goods it is important that the borders should be stiff and thick, and that the weft
should not appear through the silk.
11. Cotton.—Coloured or dyed; Silk Ends; no Borders.
Nos. 97 and 99, Vol III., are from Kohat, an important wool-producing district.
The first is dark blue without a border, but plain and figured stripes, in coloured silk
and cotton, are woven across each end to a depth of 9 inches. This piece is 10 yards long
by 37 inches wide, and weighs lib. 12oz.
No. 99 is of a similar character, except that across each end the stripes are of red and
yellow silk and 2| inches wide. The dimensions of this sample are; length 3 yards, width
1 yard 2 inches, and weight 1 lb. 1 oz.
These are examples of a garment which is extensively used by both sexes in the valleys
west of Kohat.
12. Cotton.—Coloured or dyed; Silk Borders; coloured Cotton Ends.
No. 103, is also from Kohat, and is of dark blue cotton, with a plain 1-inch stripe of
red along the border. Each end is marked by a weft of white thread for a depth of 9 inches.
The length is 4 yards 17 inches, width 1 yard 6 inches, weight 1 lb. 15 oz. Commonly worn
by the men of the Ayrore valley in the Kohat district.
The body pattern of No. 108 is a small check of red and white on a green ground.
It has a 2],-inch stripe of crimson silk in the border, and the ends are varied by a narrow
stripe pattern crossed by faint stripes of green. This piece, which is 2 yards 3 inches long
by 1 yard 6 inches wide, and weighs 8 ounces, is from Surat in Bombay. The price in 1854
was 4s.
* The favourite reds, as a rule, are dark ones. The Turkey reds and other variations of pure madder dje
colours are extremely popular, not merely on account of the colour, hut because that colour is a fast one—a most
important consideration with the native customer, owing to the very frequent washing of a rough character.