DOI Page / Citation link:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.25990#0088
MADE-UP GARMENTS.
57
After the jacket or long coat, the article next in importance is the Paejama or Trowser.
It is worn by both sexes, and although its use is as yet greatly confined to the Mahomedan
part of the population, the younger members of the Hindu community in the larger
towns are beginning to adopt it. In most parts of the country the Dhotee is invariably
worn under it. As a riding dress the Hindus wear trowsers, but always with the Dhotee
underneath.
Some Rajput women are said to wear long drawers like the Mahomedans; their use
amongst Hindu ladies however, is extremely limited.
The Paejama * is variously made, sometimes wide and free and sometimes tight at the.
leg and ankle.
The male figures 24 and 25, PI. IV., and the standing figure to left of the centre group
30 in PI. V. (facing p. 40) illustrate the first; whilst the figure to the right in same group,
and the stalwart devotee, No. 17, PI. HI., show the latter form ; the last-named figure also
shows a mode of fastening by means of a string tied round the waist.f
Although amongst the female part of the community the use of the trowser is almost
entirely confined to those of the Moslem persuasion, we find that the petticoat or skirt,
though also of Mahomedan origin, is frequently worn by Hindu women along with the
Saree. $
Pig. 26, PI. V. illustrates what may be termed the simplest form of petticoat. As
a rule, it is a garment which is kept within more moderate dimensions than in European
countries, but there are instances in which it consumes as many as 60 yards§ of material
in the making. It is allowed however to hang in thick dense folds, without any attempt
at expansion by mechanical means. The skirt or petticoat shown on the prim-looking dancing
girl, No. 3l, PI. V., is of this class. |] * * * §
* Although this term {Paejama), literally leg-clothes, has come to be of pretty general application, strictly
speaking it applies only to the loose variety. In the north and east of India the Paejama is for the most part loose.
In the central and southern provinces the Paejama is generally tight. By the Mahomedans of Arcot and Southern
India generally, a peculiar form of Paejama is used which bulges out at the sides like the European “ peg-top ” trowsers.
Izar is in some districts the distinctive name of the kind used by men, and Turwar that used to indicate the
tight-fitting female trowser, of which the standing figure to right of group 30, in the centre of PI. A. (facing p. 40),
affords an illustration. Shalwar and Gurgi are two names likewise in use ; the former referring to long and
the latter to short trowsers or drawers tight at the knee and full above.
f The strings used for this purpose are frequently of a very ornamental character, made of silk net-work like
our military sashes, with gold tassels, &c.
$ Buchanan states (Op. Cit., Yol. II., p. 417) that widows of pure birth are not allowed to use the petticoat,
but that those of low caste may.
§ In the India Museum there are two dress-skirts, the one of red and the other of white muslin, which measure
respectively 103 and 180 feet in circumference.
|| Lahangga, Lulling a, Ghagra, and Peshgeer are terms used to designate the skirt or petticoat.
Peshwaz is the name of a Mahomedan dress reaching to the ankle, and is usually of coloured muslin. The upper
portion to the waist is similar to the full dress Jama, the lower portion being as much frilled as the waistband will
carry. The lower part of the skirt is trimmed with bands and flounces of gold lace, and silver and gold tissue ; the
upper portion being also richly ornamented. This dress is worn by Mahomedan brides, and by Mahomedan ladies
on occasions of household festivals ; and it forms the invariable costume of Mahomedan dancing women, or of Hindus
who dance in the Mahomedan style.
Peswaj, however, is given by Buchanan as the name of a gown with sleeves, which reaches to the heels—worn
by Mahomedan ladies.
57
After the jacket or long coat, the article next in importance is the Paejama or Trowser.
It is worn by both sexes, and although its use is as yet greatly confined to the Mahomedan
part of the population, the younger members of the Hindu community in the larger
towns are beginning to adopt it. In most parts of the country the Dhotee is invariably
worn under it. As a riding dress the Hindus wear trowsers, but always with the Dhotee
underneath.
Some Rajput women are said to wear long drawers like the Mahomedans; their use
amongst Hindu ladies however, is extremely limited.
The Paejama * is variously made, sometimes wide and free and sometimes tight at the.
leg and ankle.
The male figures 24 and 25, PI. IV., and the standing figure to left of the centre group
30 in PI. V. (facing p. 40) illustrate the first; whilst the figure to the right in same group,
and the stalwart devotee, No. 17, PI. HI., show the latter form ; the last-named figure also
shows a mode of fastening by means of a string tied round the waist.f
Although amongst the female part of the community the use of the trowser is almost
entirely confined to those of the Moslem persuasion, we find that the petticoat or skirt,
though also of Mahomedan origin, is frequently worn by Hindu women along with the
Saree. $
Pig. 26, PI. V. illustrates what may be termed the simplest form of petticoat. As
a rule, it is a garment which is kept within more moderate dimensions than in European
countries, but there are instances in which it consumes as many as 60 yards§ of material
in the making. It is allowed however to hang in thick dense folds, without any attempt
at expansion by mechanical means. The skirt or petticoat shown on the prim-looking dancing
girl, No. 3l, PI. V., is of this class. |] * * * §
* Although this term {Paejama), literally leg-clothes, has come to be of pretty general application, strictly
speaking it applies only to the loose variety. In the north and east of India the Paejama is for the most part loose.
In the central and southern provinces the Paejama is generally tight. By the Mahomedans of Arcot and Southern
India generally, a peculiar form of Paejama is used which bulges out at the sides like the European “ peg-top ” trowsers.
Izar is in some districts the distinctive name of the kind used by men, and Turwar that used to indicate the
tight-fitting female trowser, of which the standing figure to right of group 30, in the centre of PI. A. (facing p. 40),
affords an illustration. Shalwar and Gurgi are two names likewise in use ; the former referring to long and
the latter to short trowsers or drawers tight at the knee and full above.
f The strings used for this purpose are frequently of a very ornamental character, made of silk net-work like
our military sashes, with gold tassels, &c.
$ Buchanan states (Op. Cit., Yol. II., p. 417) that widows of pure birth are not allowed to use the petticoat,
but that those of low caste may.
§ In the India Museum there are two dress-skirts, the one of red and the other of white muslin, which measure
respectively 103 and 180 feet in circumference.
|| Lahangga, Lulling a, Ghagra, and Peshgeer are terms used to designate the skirt or petticoat.
Peshwaz is the name of a Mahomedan dress reaching to the ankle, and is usually of coloured muslin. The upper
portion to the waist is similar to the full dress Jama, the lower portion being as much frilled as the waistband will
carry. The lower part of the skirt is trimmed with bands and flounces of gold lace, and silver and gold tissue ; the
upper portion being also richly ornamented. This dress is worn by Mahomedan brides, and by Mahomedan ladies
on occasions of household festivals ; and it forms the invariable costume of Mahomedan dancing women, or of Hindus
who dance in the Mahomedan style.
Peswaj, however, is given by Buchanan as the name of a gown with sleeves, which reaches to the heels—worn
by Mahomedan ladies.