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32 t CHAPTER III.

view is from the Dufferin Bridge, in the evening from
the road near Ramnagar at the other end of the City.
The graceful curve of the Ganges here, approaching a
crescent, gives additional charm to the picture. The
wide stretch of water, the long flights of steps, the
various groups of buildings, with the spires of the tem-
ples interspersed with foliage, a few quaint boats, and
the minarets soaring heavenward above it all; these
form a picture surpassingly striking.

In many respects the buildings cannot bear the
slightest comparison with those of Venice, but even
could the broad view obtainable of Benares be possible
in the Italian city, it is quite open to doubt if the gene-
ral view could be more strikingly beautiful. It is not
the artistic excellence of the details, but the grouping
of the whole, the extent, the very heterogeneousness of
the buildings, the quaint irregularities, the ruinous patch-
es, the temples and the trees; all these and many
other features contribute to make the complete view one
which stands quite alone, and possibly could not be sur-
passed in the whole world for genuine picturesqueness.

Quite another view is obtained from the top of one
of the minarets. This not only gives a distinctly differ-
ent view of the river line of the city, but a vivid concep-
tion of the city as a whole. One is able to realise, to
some extent, what a congested population there is, and
yet is surprised to find how that even in the most dense-
ly populated parts there are little patches of green
(single trees or tiny gardens).

In attempting a detailed description of the river
front, it might be thought that the best plan would be
to start from Dasashwamedh Ghat, work up the river
and then return and work downwards towards Raj Ghat,
as this is the route so often taken by tourists. But
there is no imperious necessity for viewing the Ghats
 
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