Greaves, Edwin
Kashi the city illustrious or Benares — Allahabad, 1909

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IN the present chapter we shall deal with that which
is most characteristic of Benares, as far as the eye
is concerned.

Architecturally Benares has not much to boast of,
and must give precedence to many Hindu centres in
different parts of India. Its temples are insignificant
in size as compared with those in the south, though
an endeavour is made to make up by number for that
which they lack in bulk. The view of Benares from the
river has, probably, no equal throughout the continent.
From Assi Ghat to Raj Ghat, a distance of three miles,
there is a more or less continuous line of bathing-steps,
surmounted by temples and other fine buildings. These
things, however, do not complete the picture; the scene
lacks its true effect without the busy throngs of people
which stream down to holy Ganga Mai (Mother Ganges)
in the morning. To pass along the banks in the even-
ing is like walking through the city of London on a
Sunday; it is without the bustling life, which is one of
the most striking features of the whole scene.

This feature, of course, is not so important in a
general view from a distance. In the morning the best
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