Chap, xxxii.]
SCALA NTJOVA.
29
procured an intelligent, picturesque-looking old Greek pilot
to take us down the coast as far as Rhodes, we sailed for
the Boghaz, between Samos and the main, where we an-
chored, in the course of a few hours, in a snug bay; the
pilot, according to the usual practice of Greek sailing,
not aware of the difference between a yacht and a heavy
Greek merchant-vessel, letting go the anchor without any
preparatory shortening of sail.
January 10th.—We got under weigh at daybreak, the
wind still N.N.E., and narrowly escaped driving on the rocks,
m consequence of the man at the helm not understanding
the pilot's language. The scenery in the straits was highly
picturesque, but we had passed them before the sun rose ;
then every spot of Mount Mycale was lighted up, and
the rugged points and pinnacles of Mount Titanus were
displayed. As we dropped down the coast the Temple
of Apollo Didymseus at Branchidae came in view, and
with a glass we could plainly distinguish two columns
crossed by their architrave. As we advanced through an
amphitheatre of islands, and along the mountainous coast,
the high and interesting peaks of Mount Patmos were just
visible above the horizon. After passing the mouth of the
Bargylian Gulf, and the headland of Caryanda, between
the rocky coast of Mynd us and the island of Calymna, the
navigation became more intricate in consequence of the
numerous steep and barren rocks, which rise almost per-
pendicularly above the water's edge, with deep water close
round them. They appeared to consist entirely of red
trachyte, and belong to the same formation as the greater
part of the promontory between Myndus and Halicarnassus.
Having kept well away from such dangerous neighbours,
we again steered east, passing between the low island of Cos,
and three capes on the mainland, which are laid down by
Captain Beaufort as Zephyrium, Astypalaea, and Tecme-
rium. Near the latter cape was a long line of windmills on
the heights, beyond which we entered the Gulf of Cos, or
Sinus Ceramicus, now called the Gulf of Boudroum. Here
SCALA NTJOVA.
29
procured an intelligent, picturesque-looking old Greek pilot
to take us down the coast as far as Rhodes, we sailed for
the Boghaz, between Samos and the main, where we an-
chored, in the course of a few hours, in a snug bay; the
pilot, according to the usual practice of Greek sailing,
not aware of the difference between a yacht and a heavy
Greek merchant-vessel, letting go the anchor without any
preparatory shortening of sail.
January 10th.—We got under weigh at daybreak, the
wind still N.N.E., and narrowly escaped driving on the rocks,
m consequence of the man at the helm not understanding
the pilot's language. The scenery in the straits was highly
picturesque, but we had passed them before the sun rose ;
then every spot of Mount Mycale was lighted up, and
the rugged points and pinnacles of Mount Titanus were
displayed. As we dropped down the coast the Temple
of Apollo Didymseus at Branchidae came in view, and
with a glass we could plainly distinguish two columns
crossed by their architrave. As we advanced through an
amphitheatre of islands, and along the mountainous coast,
the high and interesting peaks of Mount Patmos were just
visible above the horizon. After passing the mouth of the
Bargylian Gulf, and the headland of Caryanda, between
the rocky coast of Mynd us and the island of Calymna, the
navigation became more intricate in consequence of the
numerous steep and barren rocks, which rise almost per-
pendicularly above the water's edge, with deep water close
round them. They appeared to consist entirely of red
trachyte, and belong to the same formation as the greater
part of the promontory between Myndus and Halicarnassus.
Having kept well away from such dangerous neighbours,
we again steered east, passing between the low island of Cos,
and three capes on the mainland, which are laid down by
Captain Beaufort as Zephyrium, Astypalaea, and Tecme-
rium. Near the latter cape was a long line of windmills on
the heights, beyond which we entered the Gulf of Cos, or
Sinus Ceramicus, now called the Gulf of Boudroum. Here