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Chap, xlv.]

CjESAREA.

259

CHAPTER XLV.

Cawarea—Kara Su, anc. Melas—King Ariarathes—Eski Sheher—Greek Convent—
Ali Dagli—Yanat Tash—Empress Helena—Nyssa—S. Gregorio—Fountain—
Death of an American Traveller—Coins—Population of Cajsarea—Trade.

I remained a week at Csesarea, during which time I made
several excursions in the neighbourhood, collected some
good coins and cameos from the Greeks and Armenians in
the town, and made inquiries respecting the best mode of
reaching the summit of Mount Argseus, which I at length
learnt could only be attempted, with any chance of success,
from a village called Everek Kieui, on the southern flank,
where I should find Armenian guides well acquainted with
the mountain.

One day I visited the Boghaz, or defile through which
the Kara Su flows out of the lake into the Kizil Irmak
or Halys, by which means I satisfactorily ascertained the
impossibility of any stream or river flowing from the
neighbourhood of Caesarea into the Euphrates. Leaving
the town by the western gate, and passing the ruined
walls and moat, we came upon some extensive saltpetre
works outside the town; this is obtained in large quan-
tities from the soil itself. After a ride of six or seven miles
nearly due west, partly over an undulating sandy country,
and partly over a marsh, now covered with melon-gardens,
we reached the banks of a considerable river, called the
Sarmasakli Su, which flows along a broad valley from the
E.N.E. or N.E., and here empties itself into the lake, very
near the outlet of the Kara Su. In fact during the summer
season it can hardly be said to enter the lake, but flows
along a narrow channel between it and the hills, falling
into the Kara Su at the point where the latter river issues

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