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Chap, lii.]

KHAN CHAALAR.

369

CHAPTER LII.

Reach the Chaal Toprak—Khan Chaalar—Develi—Cross the Maeander—Ruins at
Kepejik—Geuneh—Aineh Ghieul—Allah Sheher—Cogamus—Valley of the
Hermus—Sarukli—Sardis—Pactolus—Cassaba—reach Smyrna—Turkish cha-
racter.

Tuesday, August 22.—Before sunrise we crossed the hills
which separate the plains of Baklan and Chaal, by a more
northern road than on the former occasion,* passing close to
a conspicuous clump of pine-trees near the summit, and de-
scending by a steep road into the valley of Chaal. Here we
crossed the Maaandcr by a stone bridge lower down than
before, and reached Khan Chaalar at a quarter after six
a.m. I ordered fresh horses to proceed at once to Aineh
Ghieul, in the valley of the Cogamus, near Philadelphia or
Allah Sheher, having heard that there was an intermediate
road between those I had already travelled, by following
which I hoped to be enabled to lay down the course of the
Maeander through a district hitherto unvisited.

At half-past eight we were again in the saddle starting
for Aineh Ghieul: according to the Menzilji the distance
was twenty-two hours, and as it was not a regular post-
road, we had no means of checking him ; the real distance,
however, cannot be more than eighteen, the time which
it took us being sixteen hours and a half, the ground
partly hilly and bad, and our pace sometimes slow. Leav-
ing the village, we ascended the hills to the west, which
were stony and gently undulating, entirely bare of trees,
but rich with vines, poppies, and the cotton-plant, the latter
proving that we had at length descended to a much warmer
region. The grapes were of the small black kind, rather
astringent, and chiefly used in the preparation of pekmes.
Not far from Khan Chaalar a road branches off W.S.W. to

vol. n.

* See p. 163 of this volume.
 
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