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Chap, xi,.]

KRAN KIKUI.

155

leaving Koula at eight, we proceeded for several miles along
the road to Taeniae, over the northern slope of the hills
which form the southern limit of the valley of the Hermus.
After passing a few patches of corn and opium, the latter of
which I was surprised to meet with at this elevation, we left
the direct road to Taeniae on our left at 1 p.m., about 15
miles from Koula, and turning to the S.E., reached, in about
three miles, the summit of a ridge of hills, extending N.E.
and S.W., on which were the tents and huts of the inhabi-
tants of the neighbouring village of Kran Kieui, who had
selected this open and elevated spot, abounding in pasture
and fresh breezes, for their summer residence. It was our
halting-place for the night, and I pitched my tent upon the
plain, sloping gently to the E., in view of the picturesque
group of mountains beyond Taeniae, rising to the N.E.
above the horizon; whilst the bold peaks which formed
the termination of Mount Tmolus rose to the S. and S.E.
about three or four miles off. The grassy upland plain
itself, dotted with shrubs and single trees, and alive with
many groups of men and cattle, formed a cheerful and
agreeable foreground.

A reflection I had often made was again forced upon me
this evening by witnessing the slight respect which the
Turkish Imaums receive at the hands of their fellow-coun-
trymen. They are, in truth, looked upon more in the light
of servants than of teachers; and as every Turk considers
himself a religious person, a part of the religion of the
state, he regards the Imaum merely as an individual whose
duty it is to look after the mosque, and to call him to
prayers; he has, of course, no respect for an office which
possesses none of that mediatorial character which cha-
racterizes the Christian priest.

Sunday, June 18.—We started from Kran Kieui at 6 a.m.,
and descending over undulating hills of sand and gravel,
being the accumulated detritus from the schistose hills on
our right, we crossed several streams flowing N.E., ap-
 
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