DOI Seite / Zitierlink:
https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.1327#0336
THE CRYSTAL PALACE AND ITS CONTENTS;
TEXTILE MANUFACTURES.
DYEIJTG AWD CALICO PRINTING.
pOTTON is dyed in tlio state of fibre only to a. very limited extent. Ifc
is dyed black in this state for the manufacture of "wadding;" and
small quantities are tinged pink or rose colour, by means of snfliower, for
the use of tlio jeweller. In Class IV. Mr. Clauasen exhibited some of his
flax cotton, dyed in the fibre in several colours, to show the capability of
his material for mixture with dyed wool in tho cloth manufacture.
Cotton is dyed extensively in tho stato of yarn for the manufacture
of thread—sewing-thread, crochet-thread, &c. Sewing-thread, in many
colours, was shown by Messrs. Brook, of Huddcrsfield, and Mr. W. Evans,
of Derby; and vory brilliant tints of tho same were exhibited by Mr.
Thackeray, of Nottingham, but dyed by Mr. Towusend, of Coventry.
Excellent colours in crochet-thread were shown by Messrs. Marsland, of
Manchester. In tho foreign department wo may mention with deserved
encomium Messrs. Meiseher, of Switzerland, and Ferdinand Tauleu, of
Vienna.
Dvc.l cotton yarn is used extensively for woven goods, such as shirting,
sti-ined and cheeked fatte-ys, ginghams, "Bengal stripes," "Pauos da
Costa." &c. Xc. Mr. P. .Dixon, of Carlisle, exhibited an extensive series
of dyed cotton yarns, and of the woven goods manufactured from them.
Nearly every description of tho same class of goods was shown by Messrs.
Lowthian and Parker, of the sumo city. It appears to us, however, that
the fcirlislc- dyers arc somewhat behind their rivals north of the Tweed,
as regards the brilliancy of the colours, particularly of the reds. Nothing
can excel the beautiful checks and tartans exhibited by the Messrs. Ander-
son, of Glasgow, Messrs. H. Fyfo and Co., and other
Very brilliant cotton dyes were shown on the wovei
bv Messrs. Tricot, Rouen ; Naef, canton St. Gall, S\yi|
Krctsehman, of Eisenberg. Prussia. The latter show
brilliant yarns, manufactured into a peculiar fabric ft
slippers, bags, &o.
Cotton is also dyed in the piece; numerous ex-unol
calicoes, fustians, velvets, &e. Wo particularly remark'
tiftil. cottou velvets exhibited by Messrs. W, Andrews
Chester. The success of their peculiar dye and finish is such as to render
the " patent cottou velvet" nearly equal in colour and brilliance to silk.
In whatever stage of the manufactured fibre tho dye may be applied,
the chemistry of tho process is fclio same. The colours aro fixed by
causing the substance which forms tho dye to pass from tho liquid to the
solid state within the pores of tiie fibre. Thus the deep blues which we
observed in tho beautiful stripes of Messrs. Dixon, Tricot, and Naef, aro
dyed with indigo. To fix this insoluble substance we lirst render it
soluble by bringing it into contact with lima or alkilis, and deoxidising
substances. It" wo mis finely-powdered indigo with lime and green cop-
peras dissolved in wator, the blue colour of the indigo disappears, and
we have a compound of indigo, deprived of a certain portion of oxygen,
and lime, which dissolves it! the water, yielding a greenish yellow solution.
If we immerse cotton in this solution, tho pores become filled by it, and
ou bringing tho cotton into the air, oxygen is rapidly absorbed, the blue
insoluble indigo is again formed, ami becomes fixed wilitin the culls of iho
fibre.
The beautiful pink on cotton to bo seen on many specimens of thread,
■ ..I on ■ iinc of ilio velvets or tho Messrs. Andrews, is dved with eartha-
mnic. me iri eoiou.mg prh.cm le o: ,;i'.:iovicr. TLi* m.':'-" ; ice dissolves
iu alkalis, and is again rendered soluble by tho vegetable acids, and
we avail ourseWos of this property to As it upon the fibre. Thcro are
instances of "substantive" colours, i. a., of colours which afford dyes
without boiug combined with othor Hiibataticos; but a lar-e class of dyes
"cd ■'adjective/'and require the aid of a "base" or 'mordant,"
■ .n. The valuable dyo-stuff, madder, is of this
«itor to which madder-root lias boon added Lakes
:li is removed by soap and water; but if the
salt of alumina or of iron, and dried, the earth
ts pores, ami constitutes the base or mordant;
vf boiled with madder, a full permanent colour
been used, (lie colour is red or pink, according
nt employed ; if iron has been used, tho colour
and if a mixture of the two bases has been
. ,: chocolate. In fact, the colouring matter of
dder is not colourod and insoluble until combined with tho base, and
■xhibiied
and M
eeuliarly
ery bet
beoom
class. Cotton boiled i
a more dirty tinge, w
cotton be first soaked i
or oxide is fixed withii
and if tho eotton be
results. If alumina h
to tho quantity of mo
is lilac, or deep purj
loyed, "■
process. The conditions necessary for success are that tho cokT^i
stance be insolublo, and that it bo formed by the mixture of two" "^
soluble substances. Chrome yellow and Prussian blue fulfil thn°'l0n''!
tions, and tho greater number of the brilliant yellow and blue '%**"&
cottou (and by their mixture tho greens also) have been produM?"8
fixing those substances. To fix the yellow, tho cotton is soaked ^
solution of sugar (acetate) of lead, wrung and dried, and then pluiiwi '* *
solution of bichromate of potash. Double decomposition ensuos \n\ i:"'
insolublo compound Conned, yellow cliromate of lead is precioitif V ^'
firmly adheres within the cells of the fibre. By substituting aceW*
iron aud prusslate of potash for tho lead salt and bichromate c
blue is produced. ' T^>
The greater number of the colours pn cotton are obtained bv t!
simple processes, but there arc others, and one in particular, which v "'^
more complex operations. Wo alhido to the Turkey red,'or AdntonS!
rod, as it is called by sonic of tho foreign dyers. On examining tho v?4
beautiful goods shown by Mr. Stciner, of Accrington, in Class XVHl !P
peculiar brilliancy of this colour was appreciated. Nor is it more Teatt&
able for its brilliancy than for its extreme stability and resistauee i
atmospheric and chemical agencios, for tho tedious and intricate opcr
tions by which it is produced, and for the mysterious nature of the che-
mical reactions upon which the success of these operations depends. Si
greatly is this colour esteemed, that in nearly every European coiisitrr
several manufactories may be found occupied exclusively with its predur.
tion, and specimens of tho products of theso were seen iu various denait-
ments of the Exhibition.
As the nanio implies, we are indebted to the East for the origin of fU
process. Tiio peculiar stability of the colouring matter of rubiaeeoiii
plants (madder, munjeot, &c), wdieu combined with fatty matters, appear;
to havo been kuown in India for many centuries. The processes are;aij
still to remain unchanged among the Indian dyers, so that we may re^rf
the. red-dyed cottons in the Indian collection of the Exhibition as oia-
pics of the Turkey red process in its infancy. According to the descrip.
tions oi Indian processes given to us by Lc Joux de Plain, the essenta!
constituents of the Indian dye aro buffalo's milk and powder of myrj
bolans, and an equally essential step in the mode of fixing these is en-
sure to the sun's rays. The process appears to have undergone sois
modification before reaching us, as in the earliest recipes we find the fa;ir
matter of the milk replaced by olive oil, aud the animal matter, or casein;,
by animal excrement. The tannin and the oxposuro to the sun are ;:3
retained, galls replacing liiyrobtdans. According to Pcrso/,, the prows
was introduced into France by Greek dyers, having been brought k
Messrs. Fesgact, Goudard, and d'Haristoy, in 1747. It appears to bra
been introduced into England at a later period ; but as the French gov.m-
meiit, recognising the importance of the process, purchased and published
it in 1765, it must have been generally practised soon after this period.
Let us examine the successive steps of this remarkable process. I:
cotton be steeped iu a solution of alum—or, still better, in acetate 01
alumina—and be thou dried, washed, and heated in water containing
ground madder, it is found to be dyed of a dull red colour, as we tew
above remarked. By the aid of soap the colour may be brightened, bid
it remains very inferior in point of lustre aud fixity to the true Turlar
red. To obtain this colour the dyer begins by diffusing oil (the inferior
olive oils are preferred) through water, by means of an alkali, so astJ
form an imperfect soap ; aud by steeping the cloth iu the oleaginous mi*
ture. If the cloth so treated be then mordanted with alum anddyedm
madder, no colour can be obtained, as the unchanged fatty matter prevents
the fixation of the aluminous mordant. But if tho cloth be exposed»
the sun's ravs, or heated in a stove, after impregnation with the w?
matter, the latter becomes modified: and if the cotton be aftem"'
treated with alum and madder, a red of increased stabilit.v is C-btaaM
which will bear the bi
before. If the alt<
repeated many ti
thi
,soluble
ud i
-tho
Ly °o i> „.
ttiful madder lakes-
descrmitlg — were exbibited bv Messrs
and by other exhibitors hi the foreign
be also prepared from cochine;d. IVom
purple and black lakes from logwoot
fustic, weld, &c.; and all these serve a
cesses identical with that described fo:
mordant or base, and then forming the
cloth in tho soluble colouring matter.
Coloured mineral ■mb.-tances may bo fixed
;ely.
ud i
n railed
11 jlist
uuidcr
■Obyi
s stable dyes
;., by first fi:
irsmg the mo
n alum be i
, the i
-■d, ga'
processes to a i
of oil t&d the
is still superior
■ other o
icb gr<
ait i
atte
tor extent than
to the sun
o found that
should b*a
doyod, as in tho original recipe—the alumina being thereby more
illy fixed on the fibre. It has, moreover, been found that, in ora
vain a full rich colour, tho alum bath aud madder should be ivi;.
ccoud time, aud that the brightening operations should be co»n.
a heat considerably beyond that of boiling water. In the
mbor of old recipes tho oil baths are repeated at least
aits of lato ye
jitity of oil employed hi
i have been redu<
bceu
educed i
rto
Orson's admirable work, "Impression dos '1
: is given as that of ono of the best French Tu
The cotton is saturated with iho oil bath as d
Piled, and allowed to boat and ferment for tn
Heated for several hours at a high tcmperatui
o ti. Tho above operations are repeated (sccon
)■
■ed to I'*,!'
till gw^
•us" the foil*1""
;y red dyers:-
ribed above.
irth.«
moved by steop
alkaline hat
"16. Dyed with lr
boiling in three hours,
iddcr, the tompcratm
tb de<
pension.
TEXTILE MANUFACTURES.
DYEIJTG AWD CALICO PRINTING.
pOTTON is dyed in tlio state of fibre only to a. very limited extent. Ifc
is dyed black in this state for the manufacture of "wadding;" and
small quantities are tinged pink or rose colour, by means of snfliower, for
the use of tlio jeweller. In Class IV. Mr. Clauasen exhibited some of his
flax cotton, dyed in the fibre in several colours, to show the capability of
his material for mixture with dyed wool in tho cloth manufacture.
Cotton is dyed extensively in tho stato of yarn for the manufacture
of thread—sewing-thread, crochet-thread, &c. Sewing-thread, in many
colours, was shown by Messrs. Brook, of Huddcrsfield, and Mr. W. Evans,
of Derby; and vory brilliant tints of tho same were exhibited by Mr.
Thackeray, of Nottingham, but dyed by Mr. Towusend, of Coventry.
Excellent colours in crochet-thread were shown by Messrs. Marsland, of
Manchester. In tho foreign department wo may mention with deserved
encomium Messrs. Meiseher, of Switzerland, and Ferdinand Tauleu, of
Vienna.
Dvc.l cotton yarn is used extensively for woven goods, such as shirting,
sti-ined and cheeked fatte-ys, ginghams, "Bengal stripes," "Pauos da
Costa." &c. Xc. Mr. P. .Dixon, of Carlisle, exhibited an extensive series
of dyed cotton yarns, and of the woven goods manufactured from them.
Nearly every description of tho same class of goods was shown by Messrs.
Lowthian and Parker, of the sumo city. It appears to us, however, that
the fcirlislc- dyers arc somewhat behind their rivals north of the Tweed,
as regards the brilliancy of the colours, particularly of the reds. Nothing
can excel the beautiful checks and tartans exhibited by the Messrs. Ander-
son, of Glasgow, Messrs. H. Fyfo and Co., and other
Very brilliant cotton dyes were shown on the wovei
bv Messrs. Tricot, Rouen ; Naef, canton St. Gall, S\yi|
Krctsehman, of Eisenberg. Prussia. The latter show
brilliant yarns, manufactured into a peculiar fabric ft
slippers, bags, &o.
Cotton is also dyed in the piece; numerous ex-unol
calicoes, fustians, velvets, &e. Wo particularly remark'
tiftil. cottou velvets exhibited by Messrs. W, Andrews
Chester. The success of their peculiar dye and finish is such as to render
the " patent cottou velvet" nearly equal in colour and brilliance to silk.
In whatever stage of the manufactured fibre tho dye may be applied,
the chemistry of tho process is fclio same. The colours aro fixed by
causing the substance which forms tho dye to pass from tho liquid to the
solid state within the pores of tiie fibre. Thus the deep blues which we
observed in tho beautiful stripes of Messrs. Dixon, Tricot, and Naef, aro
dyed with indigo. To fix this insoluble substance we lirst render it
soluble by bringing it into contact with lima or alkilis, and deoxidising
substances. It" wo mis finely-powdered indigo with lime and green cop-
peras dissolved in wator, the blue colour of the indigo disappears, and
we have a compound of indigo, deprived of a certain portion of oxygen,
and lime, which dissolves it! the water, yielding a greenish yellow solution.
If we immerse cotton in this solution, tho pores become filled by it, and
ou bringing tho cotton into the air, oxygen is rapidly absorbed, the blue
insoluble indigo is again formed, ami becomes fixed wilitin the culls of iho
fibre.
The beautiful pink on cotton to bo seen on many specimens of thread,
■ ..I on ■ iinc of ilio velvets or tho Messrs. Andrews, is dved with eartha-
mnic. me iri eoiou.mg prh.cm le o: ,;i'.:iovicr. TLi* m.':'-" ; ice dissolves
iu alkalis, and is again rendered soluble by tho vegetable acids, and
we avail ourseWos of this property to As it upon the fibre. Thcro are
instances of "substantive" colours, i. a., of colours which afford dyes
without boiug combined with othor Hiibataticos; but a lar-e class of dyes
"cd ■'adjective/'and require the aid of a "base" or 'mordant,"
■ .n. The valuable dyo-stuff, madder, is of this
«itor to which madder-root lias boon added Lakes
:li is removed by soap and water; but if the
salt of alumina or of iron, and dried, the earth
ts pores, ami constitutes the base or mordant;
vf boiled with madder, a full permanent colour
been used, (lie colour is red or pink, according
nt employed ; if iron has been used, tho colour
and if a mixture of the two bases has been
. ,: chocolate. In fact, the colouring matter of
dder is not colourod and insoluble until combined with tho base, and
■xhibiied
and M
eeuliarly
ery bet
beoom
class. Cotton boiled i
a more dirty tinge, w
cotton be first soaked i
or oxide is fixed withii
and if tho eotton be
results. If alumina h
to tho quantity of mo
is lilac, or deep purj
loyed, "■
process. The conditions necessary for success are that tho cokT^i
stance be insolublo, and that it bo formed by the mixture of two" "^
soluble substances. Chrome yellow and Prussian blue fulfil thn°'l0n''!
tions, and tho greater number of the brilliant yellow and blue '%**"&
cottou (and by their mixture tho greens also) have been produM?"8
fixing those substances. To fix the yellow, tho cotton is soaked ^
solution of sugar (acetate) of lead, wrung and dried, and then pluiiwi '* *
solution of bichromate of potash. Double decomposition ensuos \n\ i:"'
insolublo compound Conned, yellow cliromate of lead is precioitif V ^'
firmly adheres within the cells of the fibre. By substituting aceW*
iron aud prusslate of potash for tho lead salt and bichromate c
blue is produced. ' T^>
The greater number of the colours pn cotton are obtained bv t!
simple processes, but there arc others, and one in particular, which v "'^
more complex operations. Wo alhido to the Turkey red,'or AdntonS!
rod, as it is called by sonic of tho foreign dyers. On examining tho v?4
beautiful goods shown by Mr. Stciner, of Accrington, in Class XVHl !P
peculiar brilliancy of this colour was appreciated. Nor is it more Teatt&
able for its brilliancy than for its extreme stability and resistauee i
atmospheric and chemical agencios, for tho tedious and intricate opcr
tions by which it is produced, and for the mysterious nature of the che-
mical reactions upon which the success of these operations depends. Si
greatly is this colour esteemed, that in nearly every European coiisitrr
several manufactories may be found occupied exclusively with its predur.
tion, and specimens of tho products of theso were seen iu various denait-
ments of the Exhibition.
As the nanio implies, we are indebted to the East for the origin of fU
process. Tiio peculiar stability of the colouring matter of rubiaeeoiii
plants (madder, munjeot, &c), wdieu combined with fatty matters, appear;
to havo been kuown in India for many centuries. The processes are;aij
still to remain unchanged among the Indian dyers, so that we may re^rf
the. red-dyed cottons in the Indian collection of the Exhibition as oia-
pics of the Turkey red process in its infancy. According to the descrip.
tions oi Indian processes given to us by Lc Joux de Plain, the essenta!
constituents of the Indian dye aro buffalo's milk and powder of myrj
bolans, and an equally essential step in the mode of fixing these is en-
sure to the sun's rays. The process appears to have undergone sois
modification before reaching us, as in the earliest recipes we find the fa;ir
matter of the milk replaced by olive oil, aud the animal matter, or casein;,
by animal excrement. The tannin and the oxposuro to the sun are ;:3
retained, galls replacing liiyrobtdans. According to Pcrso/,, the prows
was introduced into France by Greek dyers, having been brought k
Messrs. Fesgact, Goudard, and d'Haristoy, in 1747. It appears to bra
been introduced into England at a later period ; but as the French gov.m-
meiit, recognising the importance of the process, purchased and published
it in 1765, it must have been generally practised soon after this period.
Let us examine the successive steps of this remarkable process. I:
cotton be steeped iu a solution of alum—or, still better, in acetate 01
alumina—and be thou dried, washed, and heated in water containing
ground madder, it is found to be dyed of a dull red colour, as we tew
above remarked. By the aid of soap the colour may be brightened, bid
it remains very inferior in point of lustre aud fixity to the true Turlar
red. To obtain this colour the dyer begins by diffusing oil (the inferior
olive oils are preferred) through water, by means of an alkali, so astJ
form an imperfect soap ; aud by steeping the cloth iu the oleaginous mi*
ture. If the cloth so treated be then mordanted with alum anddyedm
madder, no colour can be obtained, as the unchanged fatty matter prevents
the fixation of the aluminous mordant. But if tho cloth be exposed»
the sun's ravs, or heated in a stove, after impregnation with the w?
matter, the latter becomes modified: and if the cotton be aftem"'
treated with alum and madder, a red of increased stabilit.v is C-btaaM
which will bear the bi
before. If the alt<
repeated many ti
thi
,soluble
ud i
-tho
Ly °o i> „.
ttiful madder lakes-
descrmitlg — were exbibited bv Messrs
and by other exhibitors hi the foreign
be also prepared from cochine;d. IVom
purple and black lakes from logwoot
fustic, weld, &c.; and all these serve a
cesses identical with that described fo:
mordant or base, and then forming the
cloth in tho soluble colouring matter.
Coloured mineral ■mb.-tances may bo fixed
;ely.
ud i
n railed
11 jlist
uuidcr
■Obyi
s stable dyes
;., by first fi:
irsmg the mo
n alum be i
, the i
-■d, ga'
processes to a i
of oil t&d the
is still superior
■ other o
icb gr<
ait i
atte
tor extent than
to the sun
o found that
should b*a
doyod, as in tho original recipe—the alumina being thereby more
illy fixed on the fibre. It has, moreover, been found that, in ora
vain a full rich colour, tho alum bath aud madder should be ivi;.
ccoud time, aud that the brightening operations should be co»n.
a heat considerably beyond that of boiling water. In the
mbor of old recipes tho oil baths are repeated at least
aits of lato ye
jitity of oil employed hi
i have been redu<
bceu
educed i
rto
Orson's admirable work, "Impression dos '1
: is given as that of ono of the best French Tu
The cotton is saturated with iho oil bath as d
Piled, and allowed to boat and ferment for tn
Heated for several hours at a high tcmperatui
o ti. Tho above operations are repeated (sccon
)■
■ed to I'*,!'
till gw^
•us" the foil*1""
;y red dyers:-
ribed above.
irth.«
moved by steop
alkaline hat
"16. Dyed with lr
boiling in three hours,
iddcr, the tompcratm
tb de<
pension.