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78

THE UJFER SU.

[Chap. v.

for some way on our left, on which was the picturesque vil-
lage of Tchekirdgi, about half a mile from the road, and
near it the old baths called Eski Kaploujah. A mile and a
half farther we left the road to Moudaniah on our right,
and soon reached the Lufer Su flowing from the south-
west; at 3h. 18m. wo crossed it by a long bridge called
Adjem Keupri, or the Persian Bridge, soon after which a
road on our left struck off to Adranos, said to be twelve
hours distant.

Crossing the low hills which formed the left bank of the
Lufer Su, we descended into a rich and highly cultivated
plain, sloping gently to the north, partly meadow and
arable, partly covered with vineyards and mulberry-plan-
tations, and dotted with numerous villages; the line of
the road was generally marked by well-grown and some-
times pollarded elm-trees, oaks, and willows, round whose
branches the wild vine and the rose, the briar and the
clematis, twined their long pendent branches. On reach-
ing Tartali, a small village four hours from Brusa, where
we had intended halting for the night, we heard such
a bad account of its accommodations that we determined
to continue two hours farther. We were not yet up to
this trick of Turkish villagers, who, dreading the con-
tributions and forced hospitality which are generally ex-
acted by those who travel under the authority of the
Porte, look upon such visitors as a tax rather than a
blessing, and endeavour by every means in their power to
deter them from halting in their village; yet, no sooner
do they see that the traveller is determined to stop with
them, than the innate hospitality of their nature is called
forth, and every exertion is made to render him as comfort-
able as their limited means will admit of. We did not
reach Hassan Agha Kieui, a small village containing 150
houses, and six hours from Brusa, until after seven, having
contrived to lose our way amongst the hills.

After waiting half an hour in the road, we were led into
a miserable stable, one corner of which had been turned into
 
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