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34

TRAVELS IN EGYPT
them early in all they have need os, sor making their way. My intention is
only to insorm those, who, like myself, go into Egypt, to satisfy their curiosity,
and to make enquiries tending to the advantage os the republic os letters.
I begin therefore with saying, that I observed in Egypt one has need os a
good banker, much more than any where elfe. In another country it is fuffici-
ent that a banker furnishes you with money; but in Egypt, it is requisite
befides, that he ferve you as an hofl:, and in fome meafure as a protector. The
reader will imagine that, in fuch a country, there are no inns capable of receiv-
ing what we call a gentleman. It is neceffary, theresore, that the banker mould
fupply you with the neceffaries os life, either at his own houfe, or with one of
his acquaintance. If the banker is of a nation that has a conful, this minifter
commonly takes upon himself the charge of the prote&ion, you ftand in need of;
and if he is a Jew, and of a good chara&er, he will not fail of credit to fecure the
traveller from any infult.
I f, aster being provided with a good banker, which is, in my opinion, the
moft neceflary thing, you would go further into the country, and satisfy your
curiofity, I advife you much to drefs yourfelf immediately in the Turkifli man-
ner ; for, tho' one may appear at Alexandria in habits of the European mode,
it is much better to drefs yourfelf, like the Francs, and by the fight of them to
have already modelled yourfelf. By that means you pass, as knowing the cuftoms
and usages of the country, and are lefs fubjecl: to the reflections of those that pafs
by you. A pair of whifkers, and a grave and folemn air likewise, are well
employed here ; they give you a greater consormity with the natives of the
country.
A traveller will take asterwards a janissary into his service ; and, if it is
poslible, he will chuse one that has been accustomed to ferve the Francs. You
get janiflaries for a fmall matter. They commonly underftand what is called
lingua sranca (. They accompany a traveller wherever it is permitted him to go.
No one will insult him in their company. Is they meet a man os distindion, they
can give him an account of the person they efcort; and is they see the lower
sort os people running towards you, they keep them at a diftance, by threat-
nings. The bankers know the janislaries that are to be hired; and you may
truft to their recommendation.
Besore his arrival at Alexandria, a traveller mould have read the ancient
authors, and have sormed in his mind a scheme os the things, that he would
either examine or compare. But as the country has fo much changed its sace,
the traveller has need that fome one fhould put him in a right track. He may
easily make acquaintance with the divers European nations that are fettled in the
country; and he will be able to get great assistances srom them. He should
take care, however, not to give himfelf up to them with too much credulity.
s It is a kind of jargon, composed of Italian, nothing but the infinitive mood of each verb is
Spaniih, French, vulgar Greek, and other Ian- ufed; this ferving sor all the tenses and moods os
guages. In this language, is it may be so called, the conjugation.
There
 
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