DOI issue:
No. 2-3
DOI article:Żygulski, Zdzisław; Rembrandt; Rembrandt [Ill.]: Rembrandt's "Lisowczyk": a study of costume and weapons
DOI Page / Citation link: https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.17160#0070
27. „Lisowczyk", fragment of the picture with the quiver.
former restorer."23 On this basis the fuli reconstruction of the rider's „kutchma" has been tried
and reproduced in this study. (fig. 18-19).
The outer garrnent of the Lisowczyk deseryes particular attention. It has often erroneously
been described as a furlined coat. Held uses herc the correct determination „joupane", but he
does not understand its structure and function, writing: ,,an oridinary garment, made of plain
materials, able to stand hard wear"24, „possibly lined with fur"25. As the joupane never appeared
alone, but was always combincd with a mantle, Held sees in this an additional argument against
the theory that the painting is a portrait of a Polish — or for that matter Hungarian —
nobleman20.
In fact this is the most original element of the Lisowczyk''s costume, faithfully painted, without
any doubt from a real garment worn by a real man. No iconographic source, nor even an arranged
model could produce such an authentic pictorial affect. This garment, used as a rule without
a mantle, can be called a joupane, but it has a very specialiscd character: as a military dress it
is a kind of soft armour, made of quilted silk.
The quilted caftans were used as soft armour very early in the East, especially by the Mongols.
Under Tartar influence they were adopted in the Middle Ages by the Russians and called „teg-
23. J. S. Held, op. cii., p. 254.
24. Ibid.
25. J. S. Held, op. cii., p. 253.
26. J. S. Held, op. cii., p. 254.
60
former restorer."23 On this basis the fuli reconstruction of the rider's „kutchma" has been tried
and reproduced in this study. (fig. 18-19).
The outer garrnent of the Lisowczyk deseryes particular attention. It has often erroneously
been described as a furlined coat. Held uses herc the correct determination „joupane", but he
does not understand its structure and function, writing: ,,an oridinary garment, made of plain
materials, able to stand hard wear"24, „possibly lined with fur"25. As the joupane never appeared
alone, but was always combincd with a mantle, Held sees in this an additional argument against
the theory that the painting is a portrait of a Polish — or for that matter Hungarian —
nobleman20.
In fact this is the most original element of the Lisowczyk''s costume, faithfully painted, without
any doubt from a real garment worn by a real man. No iconographic source, nor even an arranged
model could produce such an authentic pictorial affect. This garment, used as a rule without
a mantle, can be called a joupane, but it has a very specialiscd character: as a military dress it
is a kind of soft armour, made of quilted silk.
The quilted caftans were used as soft armour very early in the East, especially by the Mongols.
Under Tartar influence they were adopted in the Middle Ages by the Russians and called „teg-
23. J. S. Held, op. cii., p. 254.
24. Ibid.
25. J. S. Held, op. cii., p. 253.
26. J. S. Held, op. cii., p. 254.
60