DOI Heft:
No. 2-3
DOI Artikel:Żygulski, Zdzisław; Rembrandt; Rembrandt [Ill.]: Rembrandt's "Lisowczyk": a study of costume and weapons
DOI Seite / Zitierlink: https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.17160#0071
28. „Lisowczyk", fragment of the picture with the bow position marked by J. Werner.
hilai"27, and were then introduced to Poland. The ąuiltcd garments for military purposes were
also known in the West but their form was quite different: they were as a rule jackets or dou-
blets28. With the Mongols „teghilais" were simple military dress made of coarse materials and
padded with crushed hemp, but in Russia and in Poland, as far as can be seen from the actual
and iconographic examples, they were rather rare and expensive, made of silk, and used by
noblemen serving in the army. The basie idea of the rjuilted textile was common in all these
countries, but the form of the garment was different aceording to local fashion and taste. In fact
outside these lands, especially in Hungary, there is no evidence of the „teghilai" being used. In
Poland it is attested as early as 1515 in the Triptych of Pławno and also in many other pictures,
besides being noted in many noblemen' inventories of XVI and XVII centuries. There has
survived a unique example of an actual ąuilted joupane-teghilai, surprisingly similar to the
garment worn by the Lisowczyk. This is the joupane traditionally connected with the hetman
Stanisław Żółkiewski kept in the Czartoryski Collection in the National Museum in Kraków
(fig. 20-21)
27. „Tegel" raeans „seara". — Concerning „teghilai" see: E. Lenz, „Russland und tler Orient in der Geschichte des Waffcn-
wesens", Zeitschrift fur hislorische Waffenkunde, I, Dresden, 1897, no 5, p. 110. Muscovite riders in the „teghilais" quilted
in rhomb pattern are shown in Herberstein*s Rerum Moscoviticarum commcnlarii..., Basel (1556), p. 154. Comparealso:
M. N. Lewinson-Nietchajewa Odieshda i łkani XVI—XVII viekov, Moscow, 1954, p. 328.
28. See: C. Blair. European Armour, London, 1958, p. 154.
61
hilai"27, and were then introduced to Poland. The ąuiltcd garments for military purposes were
also known in the West but their form was quite different: they were as a rule jackets or dou-
blets28. With the Mongols „teghilais" were simple military dress made of coarse materials and
padded with crushed hemp, but in Russia and in Poland, as far as can be seen from the actual
and iconographic examples, they were rather rare and expensive, made of silk, and used by
noblemen serving in the army. The basie idea of the rjuilted textile was common in all these
countries, but the form of the garment was different aceording to local fashion and taste. In fact
outside these lands, especially in Hungary, there is no evidence of the „teghilai" being used. In
Poland it is attested as early as 1515 in the Triptych of Pławno and also in many other pictures,
besides being noted in many noblemen' inventories of XVI and XVII centuries. There has
survived a unique example of an actual ąuilted joupane-teghilai, surprisingly similar to the
garment worn by the Lisowczyk. This is the joupane traditionally connected with the hetman
Stanisław Żółkiewski kept in the Czartoryski Collection in the National Museum in Kraków
(fig. 20-21)
27. „Tegel" raeans „seara". — Concerning „teghilai" see: E. Lenz, „Russland und tler Orient in der Geschichte des Waffcn-
wesens", Zeitschrift fur hislorische Waffenkunde, I, Dresden, 1897, no 5, p. 110. Muscovite riders in the „teghilais" quilted
in rhomb pattern are shown in Herberstein*s Rerum Moscoviticarum commcnlarii..., Basel (1556), p. 154. Comparealso:
M. N. Lewinson-Nietchajewa Odieshda i łkani XVI—XVII viekov, Moscow, 1954, p. 328.
28. See: C. Blair. European Armour, London, 1958, p. 154.
61