DOI issue:
No. 2-3
DOI article:Żygulski, Zdzisław; Rembrandt; Rembrandt [Ill.]: Rembrandt's "Lisowczyk": a study of costume and weapons
DOI Page / Citation link: https://doi.org/10.11588/diglit.17160#0073
31. Fragments of a Polish bow of the XVII c,. in the National Museum iii Kraków, Czartoryski
Coliection.
It is a long joupane ca 140 cm, madę of golden yellow satin considerably worn, ąuilted with
a padding of white pure silk fibres making a strong and clastic structure (fig. 22— 23). The lining
is of thick white linen, but at the bottom of both laps an additional lining of brown silk is applied.
The same colour is visible in the Lisowczyk^s joupane, misinterpreted by Held as fur. The system
of quilting is alike in the two garments: vertical in the trunk and horizontal in the sleeves, the
fiat pads are ca 3 cm broad and about 2 cm apart. The collars are smali and the laps slit on
both sides to allow the correct position in the saddle. But there is also a difference between the
two joupanes: that of Żółkiewski is cut on the breast into a diagonal form, fastened with ribbons
going through holes in the edge clasped on the left sidc (uhis system of fastening was most
popular in the East, in Mongolia, Persia and Moscow, parallel with the verlical one); that of the
Lisowczyk is simply buttoned vertically from collar to waist, like many other Polish joupanes
known from actual and iconographie examples.
Held has observed in his analysis that joupane of the rider seems to be hołd at the waist with
a belt (none of the earlier scholars dealing with the picture noticed this). In fact, there is a soft
fabric sash, marked by the artist, in fuli accordance with the Polish fashion. This was probably
a silk sash made in the net technique (fig. 24). Upon or under it another belt made of metal
links was placed to hołd sabre, bow and quiver.
The remaining parts of the LismeczyWs costume: the narrow red breeches (to match the cloth
of the cap) and yellow boots reaching half way up the calf ałso follow perfeclly the Polish style29.
29. It should be added that the typical form of Hungarian boots was diffcrent: thcy wcrc pointed and hccled but reaehed
only jus'. above the ankles. The Western boots for riding were at that tinie very high with extremely wide tops covcring
the knees and cut square aeross the tip.
63
Coliection.
It is a long joupane ca 140 cm, madę of golden yellow satin considerably worn, ąuilted with
a padding of white pure silk fibres making a strong and clastic structure (fig. 22— 23). The lining
is of thick white linen, but at the bottom of both laps an additional lining of brown silk is applied.
The same colour is visible in the Lisowczyk^s joupane, misinterpreted by Held as fur. The system
of quilting is alike in the two garments: vertical in the trunk and horizontal in the sleeves, the
fiat pads are ca 3 cm broad and about 2 cm apart. The collars are smali and the laps slit on
both sides to allow the correct position in the saddle. But there is also a difference between the
two joupanes: that of Żółkiewski is cut on the breast into a diagonal form, fastened with ribbons
going through holes in the edge clasped on the left sidc (uhis system of fastening was most
popular in the East, in Mongolia, Persia and Moscow, parallel with the verlical one); that of the
Lisowczyk is simply buttoned vertically from collar to waist, like many other Polish joupanes
known from actual and iconographie examples.
Held has observed in his analysis that joupane of the rider seems to be hołd at the waist with
a belt (none of the earlier scholars dealing with the picture noticed this). In fact, there is a soft
fabric sash, marked by the artist, in fuli accordance with the Polish fashion. This was probably
a silk sash made in the net technique (fig. 24). Upon or under it another belt made of metal
links was placed to hołd sabre, bow and quiver.
The remaining parts of the LismeczyWs costume: the narrow red breeches (to match the cloth
of the cap) and yellow boots reaching half way up the calf ałso follow perfeclly the Polish style29.
29. It should be added that the typical form of Hungarian boots was diffcrent: thcy wcrc pointed and hccled but reaehed
only jus'. above the ankles. The Western boots for riding were at that tinie very high with extremely wide tops covcring
the knees and cut square aeross the tip.
63