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14 THE ISLES AND SHRINES OF GREECE

which the Greeks might insist on calling ddXaaaa
KaK-q, but which the Indians, not knowing Greek, had
roughly called " Memphremagog." It was not easy
in Naples to get all that might be needed for a
camper's outfit. " A hamper of provisions," says
Mavilla, " containing plenty of figs, sweet chocolate,
and marrons glacis, was the most important part of
our equipment. We had, moreover, a small kerosene
stove, a baby tomahawk, a roll of Roman silk blan-
kets and enough heavy drilling to make a large tent.
Our family had not camped out seventeen summers
without learning something of the art of making
much of little; so when we added to our outfit a steel
knife and a spoon apiece we looked forward undis-
mayed to the Greek quarantine."

I was obliged to travel from Naples in a separate
compartment from my family and was thereby
relieved from following Paul's occupation as a tent-
maker; but what happened in the ladies' compart-
ment, and the subsequent experience at Brindisi,
Mavilla has faithfully recorded: —

" On many of our journeys it would have been
hard to confine ourselves to tent-making. Crossing
the St. Gotthard Pass it would have been wicked to
lose a minute of that magnificent scenery. Even the
pleasant monotony of Holland gives a continual en-
joyment to the eye; but the journey from Naples to
Brindisi is well adapted to sewing, reading, or sleep-
ing. Brown fields stretch away to the brown foot-
hills. Glaring white farmhouses are scattered among
the brown vineyards. Occasional cornfields, dashed
with yellow pumpkins, soften the treeless landscape.
There are few signs of life except here and there a
 
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