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RETURN FROM UPPER EGYPT.

101

\\th. — Eckmim, the antient Chemmis (Panopolis),
is a considerable town, well situated on an eminence, in
a fertile plain bounded by desert mountains, in which
was the necropolis. A Sheik's tomb, held in high vene-
ration, has been built upon the site, and partly with the
materials of the antient Temple of Pan, and contains a
large stone, that, from a cavity, and groovings cut in it,
seems to have been antiently used in sacrificial cere-
monies. The Arab women, who are childless, and de-
sirous of having a family, are in the habit of sitting upon
this stone, and of performing ablutions with water drawn
from an adjacent well, over which, to make the charm
efficacious, they must have previously stepped. It seems,
therefore, that in former times the Mahometans allowed
their converts to retain local superstitions, provided the
name of the tutelary influence was changed, under which
the practices were observed ; as the Catholics have
done in Italy, where most of the local traditions, that
now prevail, may be traced to a Pagan origin. Many
squared stones, inscribed with hieroglyphics, are scattered
about, and in a hollow at a little distance is an architrave
with a Greek inscription, which has been copied by Dr.
Pococke, Mr. Hamilton, and other travellers. Several
remains, such as fragments of columns, &c. may likewise
be seen in the town.

On the opposite bank is Souhaaj, where the Mameluc
chief—Morad Bey was buried; it is built on the mounds
of an antient town, by some considered to have been
Crocodilopolis. I then passed Sheik Hereedee, and the
supposed site of Passalon, and proceeded to Shendowee.
on the western shore. The surrounding plain extends
about four miles to the desert mountains, and is irrigated
 
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