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240 TRAVELS IN UPPER.

on the morning of the 29th before Gournei to the
west of the Nile.

I was about one hundred and thirty-five or one
hundred and forty leagues from Cairo, when I
gave over advancing in a southern direction.

The place where I disembarked was planted
with gum acacias. Although the village was
not far removed from the river, I requested, and
this by the advice of the Scheick of Luxor, the
Scheick of Gournei, for whom 1 also had a letter
from Ismuin, to come himself to the bank of
the Nile. He arrived immediately, and con-
ducted me to the most pitiful, the most frightful
place, from ils miserable appearance, which I
have yet met with. The huts which compose it,
vilely constructed of mud, are not higher than a
man, and are merely covered with some branches
of the palm-tree. And the men ! I never had
seen any of so dire an aspect. Half black, the
body almost entirely naked, their miserable rags
covering only a part of it ; their physiognomy
gloomy and hagard with ferociousness; following
no trade, without taste for agriculture, and, like
the savage animals of the parched mountains near
which they live, appearing to live solely by rapine;
their whole aspect had something terrifying in it.
The Arab who represented Lnu'in there, had no

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