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46 THE ISLES AND SHRINES OF GREECE

and host. Mr. Stretch had said to us as we left Corfu,
" You will breakfast in Argostoli with my cousin Alfred
Woodley." As we sailed into the winding bay of
this port we saw among the crowd of boats with their
importunate boatmen a large yawl manned by half
a dozen sturdy Greeks whose dark faces contrasted
strongly with the handsome English face in the stern.
Though of English birth, Mr. Woodley is an example
of the cosmopolitan relations which one may sustain
in these Greek islands. " Though I talk English
with my father," he said, " I always speak Italian
with my mother, who came from Italy; with my sis-
ter, who was brought up in France, I speak French;
and to my brother in Russia I write in Greek."

Two sea-water mills are among the curiosities of
the island. The water runs in from the sea, passes
through a deep natural channel in the rock and
has sufficient fall to turn a large mill wheel. To
find just where the current from the sea goes has
baffled investigators. It mysteriously disappears in
the rocky caverns. But this phenomenon of under-
ground rivers and mysterious channels is not uncom-
mon in Greece. In former times two mills were
worked by the current; one is now abandoned and
the other is not regularly used; but the water con-
tinues to flow as of yore and hides its course some-
where in the interior of the island.

Before dinner, which was to be breakfast, we took
a long walk by the shore to the old tide mills. The
first mill was not running, so in disgust, hunger, heat
and dust, Mavilla sat down by the roadside and
waited for the more energetic sightseers, who trudged
another mile to the second mill. I mention this
 
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