Universitätsbibliothek HeidelbergUniversitätsbibliothek Heidelberg
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CHRISTMAS AT BETHLEHEM.

189

seen a Romish service so reverently performed,—in no
one of the assistants, even among the small choir boys,
was there an irreverent look or gesture — unlike nearly
all the Church spectacles on the continent; the secret
of this we learned the next day, on visiting the Latin
seminary, where they are all under the watchful eye
and training of the Patriarch, and a most devout and
serious-looking set of young men and boys they were.
The Bethlehem peasants joined in the responses and
hymns with energy and apparent earnestness,—they are
a rough, passionate set, and disturbances among them-
selves are very frequent, and often break out during
these services : especially when strangers join them, and,
consciously or unconsciously, give them offence, when a
serious emeute sometimes ensues.

About 2 o'clock a.m. the wax Bambino, which had till
then adorned the altar, was laid with great ceremony in
the arms of the Patriarch, the procession moved slowly
through the Church to the chanting of hymns, and de-
scended the narrow steps to the Grotto of the Nativity:
no one was admitted besides the clergy and the French
Consul, but ourselves and two of our friends, and as it
was, the Grotto was.more than crammed. The Bam-
bino was laid on the silver star, which is supposed
to mark the holy spot, and was afterwards removed to
the marble " manger " — the Gospel narrative was read
aloud, a few prayers offered, and some hymns sung,
and this part of the service was simple, intelligible,
and really impressive — the rough cave and small
space contrasting with the exquisite gold and silver
lamps and crosses, the rich embroideries, and the ap-
parently devout faces of the assistants, with the sweet
harmony of the chanting. The service was finished
in the upper church about 3.30 a.m. We went back to
 
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