Universitätsbibliothek HeidelbergUniversitätsbibliothek Heidelberg
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BAY OF ELEUSIS.

because of course it adds as much to their trouble as to
your comfort.

General Sir Eichard Church — one of the heroes of
the Greek War of Independence, whose kindness to us
was untiring and whose advice proved most useful —
provided us with letters of introduction to various
gentlemen's houses, for in Greece, private hospitality
still supplies the place of public accommodation: a
government order, called a Bouyourouldi, was procured
for us, which was to insure us lodging and attention
wherever we demanded them. Our baggage mules and
horses had been sent on the night before, as, in order to
lessen our fatigues, we had engaged a carriage to take
us as far as the road was then completed — a seven
hours' drive. We arranged to set off at 6 a.m., but, not
being ready till half an hour later, we were rather
surprised at receiving a message from the coachman to
say that he would not go at all if we delayed another
moment, as he considered that a few minutes later it
would be too hot to set out! the hotel people wished us
good-bye in a melancholy manner, as if they thought
we were going to perdition, and altogether we became
very much impressed with the possible imprudence of
our proceedings. It was, however, too late to draw back,
and our peace of mind was soon restored by the luxurious
enjoyment of the easy, comfortable, covered britschka,
rolling along the excellent road with four horses, at a
speed that tempered the heat by the pleasant breeze.
After leaving the plain the road runs through the pass
of Daphne, a narrow and pretty valley,—(not half as
charming as its romantic Syrian namesake) — from
whence there is a most beautiful view of Mount Geranea
and the Bay of Eleusis, looking like a lake — so com-
pletely does it appear enclosed by the famed island of
 
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