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CHAPTER V.

Departure for Salona. Ancient ruins called Agia Euphemia. Salona, the ancient Amphissa; inhabit-
ants, produce. Visit to the Voivode. To Krisso, tlie ancient Krissa. Discordance of authors
concerning that town and Kirra. Krissasan plain.

TO SALONA, AMPHISSA.

On quitting Galaxidi, we were advised to carry provisions with
us; as in case we should stop any time at villages, to examine the
antiquities, we should find nothing but bread and cheese. We ac-
cordingly provided ourselves with coffee, tea, and sugar, dry raisins
and figs, ripe olives, Khaviar, and Kalbaz. When the olive ripens,
it grows black, and falls from the tree; it is then eaten, with
bread and salt, without any preparation. It is an excellent
food, and a good substitute for meat. In Italy they never ripen;
the climate not being sufficiently hot: they are however smoked,
but not comparable to those of Greece, which ripen naturally.
The Khaviar is composed of the roe of sturgeons, which are taken
in the Caspian and Black seas ; the roe is salted, and put into
barrels. It is of a dark-brown colour, is generally eaten with
oil and vinegar, and is esteemed a delicacy, though at first its
fishy taste is not agreeable : it forms a lucrative branch of com-
merce, is sent to most parts of Europe, and eaten in fast-time, by
 
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