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CHAPTER XV.

Travelling in Atlica. Hospitality. Ruins of Acharmc. Colossal marble lion near Hymettos. Remains of
tome demoi between Cape Kolias and Capo Zoster. Village of Cepliissia. Palaio Brauna, and Brauna.
Port Raphte. Antiquities in the islands of the port. Village of Keratea. Ruins of Thorikos. An-
cient shafts of the silver mines, and ruins on Laurion. Scoria. Promontory of Sunium. View from it.
Doric temple. Metochi of Alegrina. Tillage of Kataphiki. Port Anaphisi. Villages Andainesi and
Elimbos, and ancient remains. Village of Bari. Cave near it. Cape Zoster. Ancient remains. Arrive
at Athens.

Having described the principal antiquities in the immediate
vicinity of Athens, I shall proceed to mention the few imperfect
traces I found in my excursions about the country. The travelling
in Attica is perfectly secure; the inhabitants are kind and hospi-
table to strangers; and I never experienced either incivility or
extortion.

In most parts of Greece the Protogeroi, or Khodgea-Bashys, are
obliged to attend to the wants of travellers, and to procure them
lodging and provisions, on the most reasonable terms : they resem-
ble the %evoi of ancient times, who were the hosts of private tra-
vellers. The consuls and agents of foreign nations in Turkey cor-
respond to the Trpofcevot1 of antiquity, who attended to the interest of
the nations which they represented, and lodged the ambassadors.

The house of a consul in Turkey is a security against all crimes
and outrages, as the residence of a foreign minister is at Rome.

Attica was formerly celebrated for the excellence of its public-
houses2 for the reception of travellers. Carriages were in use; but
the numerous mountains caused travelling on mules to be occasion-
ally preferred. The ancient traces of carriage wheels are however

1 See Aristoph. Aves, v. 1022, and his scholiast, and Van Dale, Diss. 9. p. 773, fee.
s IWeoxtia. Plutarch's Life of Cato Minor.
 
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